Bigalow's Er34 Track Conversion

[CrimsonLey]

I been hesitating to post up my build on SAU. I'm not sure why I waited so long but I'm posting up my build here to get feedback and suggestions.

My Skyline was built and tuned by LM24 in Long Island New York. I'm slowly fixing the mess they made and bad decisions the previous owner made. My goal for the Skyline is mainly time attacking. I'm not sure exactly what I need since I've never time attacked before. I'm open to suggestions/recommendations. Hence, this thread.

Current modification list as of Jan 2012:

>> Engine

RB2.7DET (R33 short block/r34 head)

-CP Pistons 87mm

-Cometic head Gasket

-Eagle Rods

-ACL Upgraded bearings

-ARP head and main studs

-unkown Polished and Balanced Crank

-N1 Oil Pump

-Tomei Type-A cams

-HKS Race 60mm ex. wastegate

-RC 750cc injectors

-EBAY Fuel Rail

-Walbro 255 fuel pump

-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

-Unknown spark plugs

-stock ignition coils

-HKS intake with custom intake box

-Sard BOV

-PitWorks timing belt

-PitWorks drive belt

-GReddy adjust cam gears

-Garrett GT4088

-unknown clear timing cover

-LM24 custom IC piping

-LM24 custom Intercooler

-Custom 4" downpipe

Fujitsabo Cat-Back 3.5"

OBX top mount manifold

Godspeed Radiator

Greddy oil catch can as overflow tank

Nismo Rad cap

Electric puller fan convert

Nismo T-stat

Battery relocated to trunk.

Motul 300v 15W-50

Power Enterprise MAG oil filter

>> Suspension/Drive train

R33 5MT tranny

Comp Stage 4 6 punkclutch

Unknown FW

HKS unknown series Coilovers

Nismo F/R Sway bars

Unknown (HICAS removal) stabilizer bar

>> Interior/Electronics

MOMO super Cup Racing seats

AEM EMS series 1

Apexi Turbo timer

Apexi AVC-R boost controller

GTR MFD (non-Nismo version)

Nismo Combination Metter

Works Bell BOSS short hub (air bag version)

Works Bell Rapfix ii QR

Personal steering wheel

Fortune Auto shifter

>> Exterior/ (ER34)

Tommy Kaira front bumper

Nismo rear bumper

GTR Xenon lights

stock GT-R wheels

Cheap ass Nexxen tires square 265/35/18

Nismo LED trail lights (by JDM Auto Link)

GTR rear fog light

Where I want to take the build:

>> Engine

Garrett GTX30 or GTX35

McKinney top mount mani

Titanium exhaust of some sort

Spirefire coilpacks

Fix GTT wiring issue to read oil temp via stock sensor and run into my GTR MFD

Install my Haltech PPP

Nismo oil cooler

Nismo Gasket kit

Nismo plenum

Nismo Intercooler

Mishimoto radiator

Mishimotor PS cooler or stock (from Z33/34)

E85 convert

SARD/TOMEI fuel rail

Remove A/C system

>> Suspension/Drive train

I'm thinking of a GTR 4WD/AWD convert

-GETRAG

-GTR front cross member, etc.

-GTT to GTR rewiring and new wiring harness

Nismo Ti strut bar

ACT carbon clutch

ACT FW

1.5way (perhaps Nismo)

I'm thinking of changing final gears for Time Attacks. Comments?

Whiteline adjustable anti-sways

SPL Pro Suspension bits all over

Bilstein coilovers from Europe built in Oz (by Gary) or U.S. (if I could find a suspension builder with Gary's attention to detail in the US)

StopTech trophy series BBK with rotors or used BBK from someone on the forums

SS brake lines

Nismo SS clutch line and slave cylinder

>> Interior/Electronics

Nismo GT500 Ti knob

Nismo short throw

BNR34 pedals (Big Maybe)

Remove radio and speakers

>> Exterior/ (ER34)

Install my JDL tuning rear GTR bumper

Empire Aero GTR Ztune package

Paint Ztune color

Seibon Ztune style hood

Seibon CF R34 doors

Empire Aero CF R34 spoiler splitter

Remove rear wiper

Replace glass with light-weight material

Volk TE37sl 18" in black (I had the graphite and quickly sold them) or lighter wheels

Remove tint

Video (2011 before I started the GTR convert):

GT40 for now:

Haltech PPP and Boost solenoid

My Z and my 34:

[CrimsonLey]

I've finally thought of a name for my Skyline: Beast. It's sounds stupid at first and I couldn't agree more but the story of the name actually started with a co-worker of mine.

My co-workers all know that I love cars. In the past 4 years I've bought (and later sold) appx 6 different vehicles. I suppose you can say that I was searching for 'the one.' About 1-2 months ago, one of my co-workers told me that I 'should watch a movie by Eric Bana.' I didn't think much of it but he told me that the movie was called "The Beast" and it was available via Netflix steaming video. Me, being open minded, watched the movie that weekend. The story resembled my feelings towards my R34 so what better name to have: Beast... or more correctly termed, My Beast.

Now to get down to business. Around Christmas time 2011, I installed a Nismo combination meter and a GTR MFD. I took me quite a bit of time to figure out the MFD. About 3 days later, 2 blown fuses, and a dead battery, I figured it out. Heres a vid of the Nismo meter (brief view) and the MFD:

Cooling has been a major concern of mine ever since I first drove the Skyline. The previous owner is an idiot. It seemed like he was mainly concerned about how he looked driving the car and how the car looked driving. No real attention to detail was placed on the configuration and parts selection.

Anyways, car has overheated at idle on several occasions. I had to flush the radiator and engine block with a garden hose to remove the majority of the rust-filled coolant. When I was done with the flush, I installed a BNIB Nismo T-stat and used a 50/50 solution with distilled H2O. The cooling is A LOT better but still not the best. As of Jan 2012, I've flushed the radiator and block 3-4 times and there's STILL rust in the coolant.

Nismo

The shop that tuned the Skyline (again LM24) installed a puller fan in replacement of the clutch fan AND the A/C fan (aka the overheat fan). Stupid really, since an electric fan alone isn't enough to cool off a built GTR RB engine especially since there isn't an efficient airflow path in the bay (FOR NOW). Currently, I'm in the process of setting up an efficient fan, radiator, shroud combo to combat the heat.

I refuse to go back to clutch fan even though I know it'll solve my heat problems. I've decided to go with a cross flow radiator (probably from PWR), the stock shroud, and install a pusher fan in-place of the stock over heat fan.

Anyone know if the water pump and stock shroud will work well with a crossflow radiator?

I have my eyes set on Flex-a-lite fans http://www.flex-a-lite.com/ I plan on having them controlled via my uninstalled Haltech ECU and the water temp sensor (Jan 2012). I went ahead and bought a MFD from another GTR and upgraded stock my combination meter to the Nismo combination meter. Both devices are brilliant and I have visual of practically everything going on in the engine bay. Eventually I will upgrade my MFD to the Nismo version.

Edited February 6, 2012 by Bigalow

[CrimsonLey]

I dropped off the Skyline at the shop back home in Los Angeles. Thank God that I finally have a place where the tuners know WTF their doing. I took 1 of the technicians for a ride and I explained all my concerns and everything that was wrong with my car. He immediately started offering suggestions.

So, I was mainly there to get my Haltech installed and the overall car health checked but, unfortunately, a fuel line was sliced by my drive belt while I was heading there. I ended up spilling expensive California petro everywhere. The previous shop, LM24, decided to use cheap, non-SS lines for the fuel lines which was very stupid considering where they mounted/positioned them. More on that later.

Rewinding time a little, I asked the shop in L.A. to do a compression check on the engine before doing the Haltech via a their Dynpack Dyno. Thank God I did because the sparks plugs were barely torqued in place! Moreover, my compression check came back with a 150 compression in all cylinders except for cylinder 6 - which was 130. They recommended a engine rebuild.

Custom fuel lines SS are being measured and installed. I also asked them to install more fans for the Haltech to control, remove the A/C (might as well have them do it) and fix the PCV lines because LM24 used cheap Home Depot plastic lines which got burnt by the hot engine.

For the PCV lines, they decided to remove the stock PCV heads to install AN fittings like this guy did to his RB installed in a 240z. Afterwards SS lines will be measured and installed:

I didn't like the direction the tech wanted to go with the radiators fans but I guess we'll see if it over heats. He decided to installed two puller fans with a shroud behind the radiator (in-between the engine and radiator) to cool the engine. My clutch fan was never installed so I preferred to have 1 puller and 1 pusher fan to cool the radiator and engine separately sort like the stock configuration in a way.

As for the installation, I ordered a bunch of replacement gaskets fromm West Covina Nissan (TheNismoShop.com):

I eventually want to do an engine rebuild before I replace my turbo. I've been looking into the GT500 block or the N1 block and a few other improvement mods while my engine is being reviewed and rebuilt. I'll post move once the Beast is back from the shop.

[CrimsonLey]

I visited the shop today to drop off the gaskets and check on the progress of the Beast.

chilling getting work done:

The shop removed the A/C and removed the head covers to install the AN fittings for my PCV

Cheap ass Godspeed radiator (notice the rusty lines) and a Mishimoto twin fan setup

Radiator being measured and fabricated to fit

If my car continues to overheat then I'll install a cross flow radiator, install the stock clutch fan, and place the twin mishi setup in-front of the rad (reverse the blades).

[ssxRicho]

Keep it RWD for sure!

How hardcore do u want to go? A 'time attack' car means light weight. Stripping the interior

How much power is it making atm, at the rear wheels? Gt40 is a big turbo for a rb25 bottom end. Like the GTX30 idea. Move the power to where it can be used.

Its overheating im traffic? Could be N1 water pump.

[CrimsonLey]

Keep it RWD for sure!

How hardcore do u want to go? A 'time attack' car means light weight. Stripping the interior

How much power is it making atm, at the rear wheels? Gt40 is a big turbo for a rb25 bottom end. Like the GTX30 idea. Move the power to where it can be used.

Its overheating im traffic? Could be N1 water pump.

John, thanks for the interest. I'm pretty serious about Time Attack but I'm restricted to the rules of the organization which I'll be running with. I remember reading that the interior cannot be completely stripped. It's not a hardcore, competitive TA series so I imagine that's why.

My GTT-R has a RB26 engine with a stoke to 2.7. You're not the first person that thought I was running a RB25. Apologies for not being clear in the OP. My Beast is at 600rwhp ATM. I don't hit boost until 5000-6000 RPM which is MEH. I'm hoping my tuner and my GTX30 can get me into boost around 3500 and give me good acceleration through-out the track.

What do you (and anyone else reading) think about a sequential Twin Turbo setup? I know the Supra offers that stock..

To my knowledge I'm running the stock H2O pump. I think the issues is more about fans and shrouds as opposed to the water pump.

[CrimsonLey]

I got the Beast back from the shop a couple of weeks ago but I've been lazy to post updates.

My R34 didn't take the Haltech Platinum Pro. Turns out that... LM24 in New York wired my car wrong and had terrible MAP configured in the AEM ems. I'm not at all surprised and I wish I could warn any future customers to stay far far away from that place.

The new shop took a couple of weeks longer than I expected but the end result is better than expected. My RWHP went from 600 to 415 as a safety considering number 6 cylinder has lower compression. I told them not to fully tune with the AEM since I wanna ditch it for a Haltech so they gave me a 'streetable' MAP.

The new engine bay as of March 2012 (shot in a ground level parking structure):

I still have A LOT of work ahead of me and I'm still figuring out WTF they did in New York. Contacting the previous owner will be useless because he's an idiot and wouldn't know what's going on anyways. With that, I found a 3bar AEM MAP sensor chilling near the steering rack (pictured above, underneath the blue info plate with the RED wire).

new Mods as of March 2012:

• Custom twin Mishimoto fans (pullers)
• 3bar AEM sensor (never knew I had 1)
• Custom PCV SS lines
• Custom SS fuel lines
• A/C removed
• Viper 221HV alarm
• Haltech boost solenoid
• AEM (narrow/wide) AFR gauge
• Custom aluminum center dash bracket
• Radio and front Infinity speakers removed (appx total of 10 pounds)
• Works Bell quick lock (additional security to car alarm and car cover lock)

My buddy, that initially helped me learn about cars, told me to check out the shop he goes to and try to see if he's tuner could get my Haltech to work. It's mainly a Mazda shop but the tuner is well respected for the his knowledge and quality work.

A couple of days ago, I drove 2 hours to get to his place and I quickly became a believer in the first 10 minutes I was there. This tuner, located in historically desert tourist area, was jumping around my Skyline troubleshooting each and every little aspect to try to get the Haltech PPP to take. Unfortunately, he couldn't but did find out what was going on. Now, it's been two different shops that have confirmed that my wiring is f*k-d up and I'll need a new harness.

So now I'm trading-in my Haltech PPP and accessory harness in-exchange for a Haltech Sport 2000 with custom engine harness wires. The desert tuner will install a Sport 200 as well as make a new engine loom, relocate the fuse box, and clean every wire in the engine bay (i.e. wire tuck). I only wish his shop was closer so he could work on my car permanently.

On top of that, I asked him to install and configure a Nismo MFD II. It'll be the most optimal time to install the MFD II since he'll be making a engine harness and re-wiring everything.

Unfortunately, I'll be out of the country for a few years but I'll still have work done while I'm out. A Viper Alarm was the latest thing installed. That took a lot of time (appx 12 hours via 2 separate appointments) but came out perfect. Now, I just need to change the oil/filter one more time before I leave and then my family will begin watching the Beast for me.

Beast ver 1.0 as of March 2012 (shot in its parking spot - please forgive the dark video).

[funki_munki]

Looking good so far man.

Definatly go for a smaller turbo that one is a bit big for TA and a gt30/35 would spool alot quicker. Whats the OBX manifold like?I know your ditching it but i havent heard much about these other then of the 304 stainless manifolds cracking due to heat,i only ask as im curently looking at a stainless manifold but not made from 304 but made from 321 which has a higher titanium % and higher heat capabilities (nearly double that of 304)

There was another guy on here that did a gtr awd conversion to his 4 door er34,might pay to have a search and contact him to see what needs to be changed etc.

Did you make sure to bleed the cooling system of its air when you replaced the coolant? Rust in the coolant normally means water/anything other then coolant has been used and has a corrosive effect,which would lead to the radiator blocking up and not cooling as efficiently as it should. i have also been looking at the mishimoto rads & fan combo's they do as a package,interested to see how the fans/rad perform,im some what paranoid about over heating issues even tho my stock rad still seems to keep temps below 85 celcius when im giving it a hammering,might have something to do with my old r32 overheating once and finding the radiator was all bent squ-iff,i replaced that with a koyo rad and that was great.

Could even setup a water spray system to keep the system a bit cooler on track days?

Fuel system? maybe a surge tank and external pumps setup? so you dont run into any fuel surge issues and to support e85,may also want to upgrade the injectors to some larger items,30% or so bigger to support the fuel type change.

Im not aiming for as much power as you as im gonna be runing a stock bottom end (for now lol),TD06H w/garrett 60-1 wheel turbo,650cc injectors and some tomei poncams type A. Hoping for around the 300rwkw mark and keep the response at around 3500ish.

keen to see the up and coming progress of the car.

Edited March 11, 2012 by funki_munki

[CrimsonLey]

To be honest the OBX manifold has held up fine. My car overheated a couple of times to the point that made my manifold turn bright red (looked like I had LEDs installed). I was impressed that a typically cheap product held its own. For now, I'm keeping the OBX but I'm looking at the McKinney, Full-Race, or Raw Brookage manifold for a future upgrade. Thanks for the info on 321. I only wish someone made a full titanium manifold as I'm a weight-saving fiend.

I'm done with the 4WD conversion idea: too expensive, added weight, more parts that can potentially brake.

I've changed the coolant and flushed the block a couple of times. Even with the two massive puller Mishi fans behind the rad, my temps still go above 100 C when I'm driving. I'm not satisfied with my setup especially since you said that your rad keeps temps around 85. Honestly my new setup cools my engine down by 5-8 degree very quickly but my old setup done (LM24 in N.Y.) kept better consistent temperatures but had a lot of trouble lowering the temps when the car was overheating. Mishimoto doesn't make a cross-flow radiator for the ER34 so I decided on PWR:

I told my new shop that if I was still unhappy with the temps then I would have them reverse my twin Mishi fans and mount them to the front of the radiator to act as pushers (activating via the Haltech at 90degrees). Moreover, I want to incorporate the clutch fan back into my setup with a fabrication of the stock shroud around the future PWR cross-flow rad. I think thats the best receipt for cooling.

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Fuel system? maybe a surge tank and external pumps setup? so you dont run into any fuel surge issues and to support e85,may also want to upgrade the injectors to some larger items,30% or so bigger to support the fuel type change.

I'm a baby when it comes to E85 so I'm not sure what you mean by 'surge tank' or 'external pumps.' A lot of other Yanks run Injector Dynamics 1000cc, ID1000, injectors for their E85 conversions. I'll probably follow suite. The E85 convert is a little down the check-list but it's something I'm interested in. I've heard talks of fuel consistency with E85 stations and that a lot of stations don't sell the same quality E85 fuel. At this point, I'm more interested in running pump gas until I can sit down and read up on the quality of the E85 fuel at the stations near my home.

I agree that you should keep the power low. I only want big power at high boost but I want around 500rwhp at low boost. A Skyline in the states has a reputation to uphold and I don't wanna be slow. Believe or not but two weekends ago I had a dude that was driving a truck say, "I have a race for you." He said he would give me $10,000 if I could beat his 900HP Evo X. Life shouldn't be so stupid..

Sometimes, I wish I could live in Australia where everyone hangs out half-naked on the beach.

[funki_munki]

a surge tank is normally mounted in the boot/under the car. Its like a small fuel cell so the idea is your intank pump will pump into the surge tank (normally 1 or 2 litres) and then you will have 1 or 2 or more feed pumps that go to the engine,what this does is allow for a constant pressure of fuel when cornering.fuel sloshes around in your tank when cornering and your fuel pump is static mounted so if all the fuel slosshes to the right your pump might not pump alot of fuel,but if you have a surge tank it eliminates that by feeding the engine from a smaller tank that doesnt allow for the fuel to slosh.

not sure if that made alot of sense,things allways seem to be easier when its in your own head lol.

Heres a write up i found that may help a bit more.

http://modifiedcarforums.com/forums/general-tech-discussion/699-how-setup-your-surge-tank-pics.html

Have a chat with your tuner or someone in the business of e85/methanol conversions,they should be able to shed some more light onto what size injectors/fuel system is required. But from what ive heard when running e85 you use more of it so the system needs to be a bit bigger (from a mag article i was just reading on fuels they said to allow for a increase in 30% in sizing of fuel components)

[CrimsonLey]

I understand the idea. It's the same concept as the Tomei oil pan baffle or the Mine's CAM baffle. Thanks for the link.

[CrimsonLey]

Whats the OBX manifold like?I know your ditching it but i havent heard much about these other then of the 304 stainless manifolds cracking due to heat,i only ask as im curently looking at a stainless manifold but not made from 304 but made from 321 which has a higher titanium % and higher heat capabilities (nearly double that of 304)

Going back to what you said, I was looking at upgrading my turbo mani. I stopped over at OBX's website:

http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=1565#<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">

Turns out that my OBX manifold is 321 steel. I honestly thought they were some American, made-in-China junk. That might explain why they didn't burst when they turned bright LED-type red.

[GUN_METAL_GTR32]

ive never seen another r34 other than mine with the tommy kaira front bar!!

muchos respect sir!

can i ask y u didnt buy a GTR or en evo if u r so dedicated to time attack!!

[CrimsonLey]

ive never seen another r34 other than mine with the tommy kaira front bar!!

muchos respect sir!

can i ask y u didnt buy a GTR or en evo if u r so dedicated to time attack!!

Thanks for the interest, Julz. In that case, I suppose I'm not as dedicated as it seems.