Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I Installed my deck all working fine and well, then soldered and taped up wires.

then it didnt work.

NO CONSTANT POWER!

checked fuse under steering wheel and checked in boot all fuses ok.

got a volt tester and theres no power from the constant power line.

also the clock isnt working either now

any help appreciated

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39100-help-please/
Share on other sites

If the clock isnt workin either...u must have a blown fuse somewhere in the car..ull probably find that the interior light isnt workin either...on most cars this fuse is in the engine bay and marked DOME....it provides power to the interior light..clock and memory for the radio...u could have possibly shorted it out when soldering it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39100-help-please/#findComment-793776
Share on other sites

If the clock isnt workin either...u must have a blown fuse somewhere in the car..ull probably find that the interior light isnt workin either...on most cars this fuse is in the engine bay and marked DOME....it provides power to the interior light..clock and memory for the radio...u could have possibly shorted it out when soldering it...

thanks for your help

ok the clock is working but really dim now, and doesnt hold memory at all really strange.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39100-help-please/#findComment-793784
Share on other sites

It could be the high power head unit on low current wiring problem.....

Most older stereos (dunno years, maybe before mid 90's?) had a low current constant wire (say with a 1 amp fuse) and a high current Accessories wire (say with a 10 amp fuse).

At some stage over the years they changed this to a high current CONSTANT wire (drawing 10+ amps) with a low current Accessories wire, just to switch the radio on.

Now, I can't recall the wiring in my Skyline, but I'd assume the constant voltage wires in the dash are designed for low current usage (the clock drawing maybe 10mA?) and the 10 amps or so your new stereo is trying to draw is burning out the wire. With luck, there is a fuse inline there... it may not be in the fuse box though.

I'd recommend running a new wire straight from the battery (or straight from your amplifier power distribution block) to this constant wire.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39100-help-please/#findComment-807022
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
    • 100% is gyprock, I agree. Slip of the keyboard. Haha! I left my indicator bulbs out to save a bit of weight.
×
×
  • Create New...