Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Where to get genuine Nismo ones?

I have the same setup as Terry on my Nismo LMG3's except I run the longer Nismo lug nuts. I got mine through Nissan Race Shop in the US because at the time the Australian dollar was really strong and they had them on sale so it worked out cheaper then anywhere I could find in the Japan but as you know the dollar is weaker these days (still half decent) so it might pay to check RHDjapan or Nengun first. Currently on the Nissan Race Shop website the Nismo long lug nuts go for around $150USD and the shorter ones $145USD with the valve stem caps being $35USD. Hope that helps

[edit]In regards to the Nismo lug nuts I also did see somewhere not to use a rattle gun on them. I refuse to and whenever I take my car to a shop where the tires have to come off I inform them as well and so far they have been good and not used a rattle gun on them.

Edited by Triptych
  • 4 years later...

Bump for this thread. Ive had cheap wheel nuts for quite a few days but now they are not holding up to track days.

What would ppl recommend for track days ? I want strength and reliable

thanks

On ‎1‎/‎03‎/‎2013 at 6:15 AM, JimmyRickard said:

What's the best option for a track only car? Can the genuine Rays nuts strip when using a rattle gun as well?

Best option is to not use aluminium nuts or a rattle gun without a torque bar.

http://www.kctools.com.au/Products/impact-sockets/1-2-drive-torsion-bars/1-2-quot-drive-torsion-bar-2

You can find steel nuts, my recommendation is avoid the open ended ones.  Water will pool in them followed by lovely orange streaks of rust.  I got some ARK design ones ages ago.  They are longer (50mm) to suit the longer Nismo studs.  Cant remember from where maybe ebay maybe direct.

http://www.arkdesign.co.jp/accessory.htm

6 minutes ago, vxsr33 said:


These are good, only problem is that the paint flakes off extremely easily on them.

I have no experience with them, just saw them whilst i was browsing one day

i dont use alloy/alu nuts because ive had multiple sets destroyed... when I learned my lesson and they were still getting damaged it was the different workshops who worked on the cars. Both my cars run Nismo steel nuts, havent had any problems with them. Bit of copper grease and theyve been good for years.

As far as coloured ones, im not sure, sorry.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

326 Power lugs are super sweet.

Aluminum though so can be stripped if your not careful.

caps are interchangeable and come different styles and even spikes if your into that kinda thing.

326px_009_3.jpg

b93-003_3.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This piece is obscenely discontinued. I honestly hate the frameless window design because the rubber gets stressed and the guides as well every time you open and close the door.
    • I wouldn't be concerned at all, other than to suggest having them flow tested when you receive them to confirm they are reasonably similar, and then put the highest to lowest flowing ones in cylinder 6,1,5,2,4,3
    • I’m only posting this cause I thought I had seen a bad review on these somewhere before. Any feedback? Would you guys recommend that if I do buy these I send em to RC to have em checked before installing. Or any other suggestions?   https://www.ebay.com/itm/114009965865?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JDl-15yLQ8C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QTzlFXB1S-S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
×
×
  • Create New...