Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

didn't remove the calipers, just the pads. Masked up the rotors an covered the rest of the surrounding areas with newspaper.

as for the letters, masking tape, very sharp scalpal, and a lot of time. after i sprayed the blue I removed the tape off the letters, then painted the NISSAN letter white by hand with a small model paint brush.

I'm pretty sure there's a full guide to this on the maintenance forum.

That white car, dark BBS style rims, GT wing and blue calipers is a masterstroke. It looks the part!

I have a silver 33, bronze TE37 rims and I want to paint the calipers.

What colour do you reckon?

blue, gold or red?

Or silver?

Here's pics:

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/r33tints1.jpg

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/r33tints2.jpg

T.

I have a silver 33, bronze TE37 rims and I want to paint the calipers.

What colour do you reckon?

blue, gold or red?

Or silver?

dont reckon gold...clash with your awsome wheels. Silver would be ok but wouldnt stand out much.....I reckon blue would look good.....

but i think Maroon (same as on your GT badge) with white letters would look sweet as!!

looks nuts.... btw calipers get hot as what model paint did you use? or did you use a modelling brush to apply heat resistant paint?

Did you use a primer, did you sand or buff the caliper back first?

looks nuts.... btw calipers get hot as what model paint did you use? or did you use a modelling brush to apply heat resistant paint?

Did you use a primer, did you sand or buff the caliper back first?

lol...yeah i know they got hot....just used a modelling brush, the paint is white engine block paint....up tp 550 degrees celcius i think?

didnt use primer, used metho and an old paint brush to clean the calipers VERY thoroughly, then used a bit more metho on a clean rag an wiped them down till no more dirt came off. I dont believe caliper or engine block spray pack paint requires primer, just be sure the surface is super clean. :D

i've got a light silver series 2 r33 gts-t and am thinking of doing something similar .. i went through all the colors of the rainbow and more and digitally changed the calipers on a picture of my car ... blue is seriously the only color that looks good on a silver car in my opinion

taking the calipers off isnt hard...just a few bolts and clips....even if yiu wanted to dissconnect them an paint them on the shelf isnt really difficult, just have to bleed the brakes and add a bit more brake fluid.

I just didnt see the point, its easy enough to do them on the car, and they come up quite well. So long as you put more time into your preperation than actual painting, should all be good.

jus look at mine :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...