Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Skyline R33 Rear Seat Removal Pictorial Guide

You should see something like this with an obvious bolt on either side just below the base:

RSR1.jpg

Do this to both sides:

RSR2.jpg

The next step is the only tricky part. You have to pull the base of the seat up and out first, and on either side there is a metal loop stuck in a plastic type catch to hold the seat in place. One side at a time, you'll need to pull pretty much straight up around the area shown in red below. (The catch you're trying to prise free is seen below in blue). This can be hard to remove, in my experience you have to pull quite hard. You can push the middle seatbelt and buckles through the seat first to make things easier.

RSR3.jpg

You should now see something like this. Removal of the backrest is straightforward, just remove the bolt/screw on either side, slide the seatbelts on either side out of the way and then lift upwards and forwards.

RSR4.jpg

You just need to lift over the three hooks shown in red below. Remember to sit the backrest back up on these supports when you put things back in place.

RSR5.jpg

The quality back seats look something like this!

RSR6.jpg

http://users.tpg.com.au/johnkg/skyline/rea...eats/index.html

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39133-r33-rear-seat-removal/
Share on other sites

Good thing, except that on my '98 R33 there are two 'prongs' that go through the floorpan and are released underneath the car by undoing a clamp and squeezing the 'prongs' together then pushing them back up through the hole. These 'prongs' are accessed from under the car ie they are outside the car. I haven't done it yet, tried to get my rear seat out but put the base out in the too hard basket. I only wanted to get my backrest part out anyway, and with a bit of patience it came without the need to take the base out.

PS you can actually see the holes for the 'prongs' in your photo, you have circled them in blue.

Very nice guide!!

I pulled as hard as i could to get the seats out after i undid the bolts... no luck

so i managed (akwardly) to undo the bolts on back part of the seat without taking the bottom part out - was a biatch tho

Good thing, except that on my '98 R33 there are two 'prongs' that go through the floorpan and are released underneath the car by undoing a clamp and squeezing the 'prongs' together then pushing them back up through the hole.  These 'prongs' are accessed from under the car ie they are outside the car.  I haven't done it yet, tried to get my rear seat out but put the base out in the too hard basket.  I only wanted to get my backrest part out anyway, and with a bit of patience it came without the need to take the base out.

PS you can actually see the holes for the 'prongs' in your photo, you have circled them in blue.

hey tridentt150v, I'm pretty sure the prongs you are talking about is the white plastic bit right? Thats just the mount that holds the metal prongs in the car body - the white plasticy bit should stay in the car and the metal loop bit is what you have to lever out.

  • 3 months later...

Um... i tried to remove my seats today and where you've circled the clips in blue in the third pic...well mine didn't come out quite right on the left side... the platic base that holds the clip also came out... is that bad? :s

Um... i tried to remove my seats today and where you've circled the clips in blue in the third pic...well mine didn't come out quite right on the left side... the platic base that holds the clip also came out... is that bad? :s

Hmmmm! Sounds like you've just written off your car....tough eh!!

On further consideration..you might just save the day if you prise the white base off the steel loop and replace it in the hole with a bit of silicon and an abject apology :wassup:

A better way to remove the seat base...especially if its tight ..is to use a large screwdriver or prybar just inside of the black bracket and lever it up

thanks 51jay but i meant from a safety point of view. :) sounds like no biggy. Still, couldn't get the seats out so thought screw it and gave up. Will do it later when i have an urgent need to. I only really wanted to get at the base of the back windscreen cause the guy who removed the tint did a crappy job and left glue all over the window.

  • 11 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey nice guide. I've tried taking out the rear seats previously along with a few of my mates and we failed. We got stuck at the same point everyone else seems to, but now i know it will eventually come out ill have another go at it. I think ill just get some leverage or muscle power and lift the front of the seat up until something breaks or it comes out lol.

  • 1 month later...

FOR EVERYONE:

Even easier than pulling it up by yourself and taking a while and all that strength....... is to jam a crowbar under each side and pull up, its out in two seconds!......trust me it's easier hehe

Edited by NeesaanGTS
  • 11 months later...

Don't need piccies!

Bottom of rear seat has two bolts, on the side of the footwells, can't miss them)

Push the bottom-seat down around the seatbelt area, and you'll see a bolt on each side holding the back-seat in. Undo those.

Back-seat goes up to unhook, bottom seat goes forwards and up (it's hooked to the back-seat)

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
    • Did this ever go further ? Would love some updated info 
×
×
  • Create New...