Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey troops,

Just wanted to let you know that these Xenon HID kits that are plug n play can be a real pain. Spent 5hrs today mucking with this sh!t.

Might be easy if in the first place if your engine bay isnt cramped with CAB, IC piping, Charcoal canister and to top it off a large oil catch can.

Started off I checked my driving lights and they're H1. So I buy a H1 kit off the forums.

1st issue. The globes you get dont fit the N1 Projector lights (H1). Useless unless you want to butcher the globe fittings. FFS.

So lucky enbough I have an early set of N1 Projector headlights (H3). SO I order a set of these and wait a week.

They show up so today I get up and around lunchtime start.

As my H3 N1's are on the shelf I fit everything up first and it's the right globes/fittings/wiring. Hurrah !

No worries. Take the blinkers out, start removing the headlights.

Bugger Cold Air Box has to come out. Charcoal canester, Intercooler piping off. Many dropped nuts, sockets - much cursing trying not to scratch new paint.

GTR grill off, Air diversion plate off.

Get the drivers side haedlights out, new ones hooked up - Wow Light. Finish putting it in. :thumbsup: YAY

Passenger side headlight out, N1 (H3) in. hooked up. NO LIGHT.

Bugger is it the globe?, change globes - Nup. Is it the wiring? Change wiring, Nup.

Mix and match doing a process of elimination. Put the old one back in - Nup.

Screwed around for the rest of the afternoon. No joy.

Put the Xenon (H3's) in the passenger fit it all up as I have to take the GTR to inline tomoz.

All IC piping back on and everything bolted backup..

Go to check the lights hoping a miracle has occured. Nothing on the passenger side.

Minor fustration shown to the cabin switch. High beam comes on passenger side. What ?

My problem is a farked headlight switch. I have 2 and both are farked.

Found this out after I take the cluster surround and cluster out. Grrrrr

RHDJapan - $230 delvierd and 2-3 week wait.

Coulda pulled the engine out in less time today !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391477-xenon-h1-and-h3-lights-kit/
Share on other sites

Has to be. Run out of options thru elimination.

Plus the high beam only worked on the passenger side after a "tap" on the switch.

Next time I tried it and it wasn't working. So after another "TAP" it worked.

However the driving light - lowbeam - didn't come on at all.

Maybe it's not but it's my best guess :(

I took the easy way out and butched the globes lol. But I agree on how much of a pain it was. Was so much easier on my SS.

Another problem could be a fuse blown maybe. As the fuses run differently off the high and low beams.

Hmmmm - "As the fuses run differently off the high and low beams" Tell me more.

I put the 20amp fuses in the Engine bay fuse box for RH/LH headlights.

IS there any else I dont know of.

I checked the in cabin fuse box but no Headlights in there marked on the card..

If the ones in the engine bay are ok, then I think there is a light fuse under the dash but that was in my 1990 pulsar, don't know about the gtr. Otherwise if the globes aren't blown and the wiring checks out, its the switch. Start from the globe and work back from there.

If all that doesn't work, the a wire could be earthing out somewhere. Got to love electronics lol.

There's a big brown relay switch in the engine bay and the switch on the dash.

Parker works on passenger side and occassionaly highbeam when you tap the cabin switch a little. It's just the low beam (driving) that's never come on.

Tried 2 globes, and the old unit so not the globes. Also tried the original and 2 other wiring and balasts off xenon both kits.

So I'll try a new light switch on the cluster surround and brown relay switch in the engine bay.

I'll do the engine bay one first as it will be cheaper and easier.

PS. I looked at the switch, played with contacts and used WD40. Feels solid, no rattle but I cant dissasemble it.

Good idea, always best to start with the easy stuff first. If the relay is fine then I suggest to borrow a working which from another car and test it. Even though you can't rip it apart, doesn't mean something inside isn't playing up.

I'd get someone with the same car that is working, and work off that.

I only had to cut the black round screw on covers with a hole, and put the rubber grommit in, but that is on my R33... And only did the low beams.. Coulda done high too, but didnt want 2 sets of balists...

I had to unscrew the fuse box and radiator overflow, but nothing too bad....

Really sux bout all the other headaches you had though!

Edited by J'son
  • 4 weeks later...

In other great news got the H3 HID kit working, both drivers / passengers.

I'll mod my H1 set of headlights for use down the track.

Turns out I had a broken light switch (x2) on the dash.

Nissan shoulda done a RECALL, you bastards!

So the newie from RHDJapan arrived last week and put it in this morn - Now it's all Good. Thank fark.

Nick - thanks for your kind offer mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...