Jump to content
SAU Community

places to check a potential skyline

DarkCoupe

By DarkCoupe,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

My point was mainly.. if its a major problem, it will show when driving it or inspecting it visually. And most inspections are only to do exactly the same as you could anyhow.

Other than physically opening up the gearbox, or other components of the engine (which of course no inspection is ever going to do), I don't see how those things are checked in any other way than simply driving it or checking for very obvious signs by the inspector either.

I don't think they even get it on the hoist to check the chasis condition in most instances, and the tests I have witnessed have mainly been visual and a very short road test. They seem to be very superficial in most instances.

If you were interstate you would at least want some piece of mind, but then again, without you supervising the test how do you know the depth the test has done?? I would never accept an inspection from somebody else without physically taking the car for a drive myself. They could have spent just 10 minutes looking at it, or the owner could have slipped them $500 to give a good report - you never know.

DarkCoupe Community Regular

DarkCoupe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well ... I am going to have a car I am considering inspected tomorrow. The check I am getting is definatly a very detailed check, as they put the car on the hoist, take all the wheels off and check the brakes, suspension and other major components under the car for any damage, and note any parts that look 'newer' than others (ie. replacements), and also check for sprayed panels and replaced ones.

End of the day, I would want to get one done even if I flew up. I figure I'll get the check done (and since I am the one paying the dealer / seller doesnt get to see it AT ALL, that's the agreement between me and RACQ) then I make the decision to cough over extra $$ for a flight, then obviously drive it and use my own experience and tests (on top of the notes from the inspection) to make the final call.

Re the slipped them $500 ... hmm well I guess I would never know you are right. But I will be driving the car myself anyways when I fly up and I will take it for a good test.If he's available (which he may be) Muz will also be joining me for a test and lookover. Since he owns a R34 himself, it will definatly help I think :P

so ... does that sound sane or not?

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

nah.. sounds like a very comprehensive test.

The tests I have done in the past, by the RACV (RACQ up here), and others have been very superficial and a waste of money.. They have basically just been drive out and look type tests, nothing substantial like that.

Keegs Grand Master

Keegs

Posted
Posted

Yea the problem with people like racq is that they aren't used to looking at imports etc all day long. They aren't really experts in knowing what to look for on a skyline for example. IMHO you are better off taking it to a workshop, who actually knows cars and knows what to look for and what not to worry about. racq will go over the car but may only point out things that are not going to ever make a difference! I know a guy who sent a relativley new range rover for an inspection and they claimed that the rotors were undersized when in fact they had never been changed....so yea i suppose they can be good but I think a waste of money that could be better spent paying a workshop to really look over your car. My 2c

DarkCoupe Community Regular

DarkCoupe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

EVO83 I understand that you think that RACQ would not see a lot of imports, but then again you might be suprised. They do get to look at quite a few.

The problems were not ... mechanical. The car was fine mechanically, and would probably run like a dream. The bodywork however (if you know what you are looking at) was on a totally different level though. PM me if you want to know more I guess as I'd rather not say more here.

Keegs Grand Master

Keegs

Posted
Posted

I agree with spooks the buyer should definately have to pay otherwise the seller could be forking out heaps everytime theres another buyer! I also agree with EVO83, Darkcoupe i would seriously consider getting a workshop to check over the car, even if your talking about bodywork! RACQ do see imports but they more than likely dont know exactly what to look for, what they dont realise is that these are second hand cars, from japan. Get a workshop to look over the car before you make a decision racq are always going to point out even the stupidist of things becoz it covers there behind legally! A workshop will tell you if its something that is REALLY going to be a problem!

Keegs Grand Master

Keegs

Posted
Posted

ah i see your point. In that case I agree with your decision. But yea i stand by my comments about gettin a workshop to look over it. I wish you the best with finding a car!

Matt

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're not wrong, but more than a few times I've heard of people running into issues where their injector characterization isn't quite right and that approach works for that specific configuration but once they switch over to a new set they discover a whole bunch of stuff wasn't set up correctly. It's slightly more annoying to reverse engineer the OEM MAF transfer function but you already have the sensor wired up to the factory harness so keeping it around for a few weeks more while you figure out the tune is easy enough. I've seen GM also use a combination of both MAF + MAP in their ECUs before, MAF is for steady state and a calculation of the cylinder VE to correct the base VE table, then in transients it uses that calculated VE + raw MAP to determine cylinder filling somehow.
    • SeanR32GtSt
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Desean Strickland
      Need help/advice with bearing taper clearance, eccentricity and arp studs.

      By Desean Strickland · Posted

      Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
×
×
  • Create New...