Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why you would want to do that i dont know.. if so you may have to remove the shims in the relief valve. if its filling the rocker covers up that wont really help. but it would be a massive job for a "just to see"

Don't believe a standard n1 pump will have any shims in the pump. From memory it will just be the two springs. But I'm with t04gtr 75psi isn't overly high. What oil are you running? You could try a different weight.

The N1 pump in my RB30 runs at 140psi cold and 100psi hot at 100km/hr and idles at about 50psi.

I am going to get a better oil pressure gauge to check but it does this with a couple of different grade of Motul that I have tried.

I also had problems with oil filling the cam covers (and blowing out everywhere) but this seems under control since I fitted 2 x 1mm restrictors and two breathers from the sump to a catch can (no "oil drain" from the back of the head).

the standard reliefe valve is about 120psi, it's no good. All the reliable RB's down here run ~75psi (that includes the 500rwkw lap record holder). But none of them run N1 pumps, so I can't get get a starting point for springs.

I had read somwhere that the N1 has two springs, but when I opened it up, only one big one was in there. I have put a fitting in my sump so I can change springs pretty easy.

and the down side of having high oil pressure? 100 psi at full noise hot is bang on. what is the problem with the engine?

you pressure reading is that taken from the small 1/8thnpt plug rearwood of the oil filter housing on the block?

oil pressure SHOULD be adjusted with oil wieght and bearing clearance, idealy there should be no presure relief in the pump ( aka most dry sump pump set-ups). so ALL the oil is being circulated removing heat and lubricating.

if you are concerned about the pressure try loosening up the oil clearance 1/2 a thou or so on the big ends. (try to keep the mains a little tighter so oil pressure rises quickly) also, having a high pressure means the oil pump is returning alot of oil to sump/pick up instead of going thru the bearings.

so opening up the clearances will make it live longer aswell. + reducing the oil pressure. 2 birds with one stone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...