Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why you would want to do that i dont know.. if so you may have to remove the shims in the relief valve. if its filling the rocker covers up that wont really help. but it would be a massive job for a "just to see"

Don't believe a standard n1 pump will have any shims in the pump. From memory it will just be the two springs. But I'm with t04gtr 75psi isn't overly high. What oil are you running? You could try a different weight.

The N1 pump in my RB30 runs at 140psi cold and 100psi hot at 100km/hr and idles at about 50psi.

I am going to get a better oil pressure gauge to check but it does this with a couple of different grade of Motul that I have tried.

I also had problems with oil filling the cam covers (and blowing out everywhere) but this seems under control since I fitted 2 x 1mm restrictors and two breathers from the sump to a catch can (no "oil drain" from the back of the head).

the standard reliefe valve is about 120psi, it's no good. All the reliable RB's down here run ~75psi (that includes the 500rwkw lap record holder). But none of them run N1 pumps, so I can't get get a starting point for springs.

I had read somwhere that the N1 has two springs, but when I opened it up, only one big one was in there. I have put a fitting in my sump so I can change springs pretty easy.

and the down side of having high oil pressure? 100 psi at full noise hot is bang on. what is the problem with the engine?

you pressure reading is that taken from the small 1/8thnpt plug rearwood of the oil filter housing on the block?

oil pressure SHOULD be adjusted with oil wieght and bearing clearance, idealy there should be no presure relief in the pump ( aka most dry sump pump set-ups). so ALL the oil is being circulated removing heat and lubricating.

if you are concerned about the pressure try loosening up the oil clearance 1/2 a thou or so on the big ends. (try to keep the mains a little tighter so oil pressure rises quickly) also, having a high pressure means the oil pump is returning alot of oil to sump/pick up instead of going thru the bearings.

so opening up the clearances will make it live longer aswell. + reducing the oil pressure. 2 birds with one stone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...