Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt To R34 Gtr Vspec Conversion. Attesa-Ets Pro Control?

jaggmax
 Share

Recommended Posts

jaggmax Apprentice

jaggmax

Posted
Posted

Hi guys.

I'm looking into doing a driveline and engine conversion for my R34 GT-T II

I'm currently sorcing an R34 vspec as it is easier to swap everything over. probably going with a front and rear half cut. If there are any uncommon issues that anyone knows of, please feel free to let me know as i haven't sorced the bits yet and this is my first conversion :)

I'm not doing it myself, but the mechanic has only had a mild amount of experience with jap cars.

I've done some research and found a thread done by "godsmind" and while this was helpful, it didn't have all the info i needed.

So my main question for now is, how can i control the ATTESA-ETS Pro system? i know the 32 is as easy as ripping a fuse to disable the front wheels, but the 34 is more complicated that i have the brain power for lol

does anyone know of a controller system that will enable me to turn the front drive on or off without damaging anything?

cheers in advance :D

  • 2 weeks later...
ichi-go Rising Star

ichi-go

Posted
Posted

^^ This man speaks the truth

AFAIK only the R32s can be changed with taking out the fuse but the 33s/34s will need to take out the driveshalfs to properly disable the power to the front

By the time u change everything and making it work, it would be better just buying a GTR that has already had all these

mystery_kid Mentor

mystery_kid

Posted
Posted

so you are transferring the entire running gear including front diff and attessa system ?

it would probably be cheaper to change the shell swap from your GTT over to a GTR chassis

waste of time and money, but some people are not short of either

nomnomv8 Rising Star

nomnomv8

Posted
Posted

You do realise your entrusting a mechanic with "mild jap car experience" with what could very well be a $40,000+ project.

Just buy a GTR or if you want to take a short cut drop a 26 into a GT-FOUR and save the countless headaches, time and money.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Snappytom Enthusiast

Snappytom

Posted
Posted (edited)

all i can say is buddy if your keen, cashed up, patient, got the will too see it through nobody here should stop,

its your car after all, all we do here is provide you with our opinions and even though probably just buying a GTR all together is a cheaper way of doing it, but hey

i have not liston'd at all lol i own an R34 GTfour 2 door coupe with attesa awd from factory swapped it with an RB25 DET neo 2wd motor made a sump conversion plate for the awd sump (hell i know what your all thinking wtf man should have just bought an RB26 or rb25 from a stagea) running the stagea S2 ECU loom and fusebox, and also running Stagea s2 auto tiptronic box with a custom exhaust manifold plate to mount the Standard R34 gtr manifolds and standard Vspec turbos,

im in the process of wiring shit at the moment.

but yeah don't let anyone stop you like i said and even godsmind if you got the cash the time the patience some beer and a couple mates to help you out here and there, the experience and the satisfaction of making something yourself that's unique is a good feeling...even though you blown a ton money lol

anythings possible

but yeah good-luck if your gonna do it!

Edited by Snappytom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ozdavroz
      Best Skyline ever

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Skidmore
      Leather Gucci Bag With Receipt

      By Skidmore · Posted

      Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • Skip33
      Best Skyline ever

      By Skip33 · Posted

      @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • Erelyes
      Jeff R32 Build

      By Erelyes · Posted

      All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...