"steam Pipe" Single Turbo Manifolds On Fleabay....anyone Know Anythging About This Supplier And Their Products?

[Hanaldo]

Just to clarify, the post count wasn't the point of my comment. Some of the members I respect most on here have less than 500 posts and have been around for years. I was simply indicating that perhaps if 51NNA had spent more time on here, he would realize that these guys are amongst the MOST qualified on here to be making the comments they are.

And yes, I'm talking real-world experience. I mean you've got two qualified and well experienced welders here indicating that there are improvements to be made with the welds. Sure Simon could have been a little 'nicer' with his criticism, but again, spend some time on here and you might not be so sensitive to comments like that.

Kam, I had a look on your website and your ebay sales but couldn't find a mention of any guarantees specifically for these manifolds. Is this because you do not offer one, or am I not looking in the right places?

[urtwhistle]

Hey for those interested. This is what a GT3782 looks like when fitted to a Rb3025 in a R34. the bonnet only touches when pushing it down on the 2nd click of the bonnet latch.

[GTScotT]

What turbo is that mate? Looks like a truck spec heart breaker, u sure you want to use that?

[Bsa]

Turbo sits very high even for it's size

[urtwhistle]

yeh it was only fitted out of curiosity and was taken off 2 mins later. it is a Scannia spec twin scroll GT3782 in a large frame spec. it will probly end up coverted to a GT3788 for an XR6T. I'm using a TD06SH-25g when it shows up.

it also probly sits so high cos its on a RB30 and its a large frame turbo.

[Dale FZ1]

While you're playing with a 30DET, do you have an XR6T spec GT3582 to do a mock-up and establish whether one of those would give clearance problems?

[urtwhistle]

I don't sorry. If I did I would have fitted it permantly. But when my new turbo shows up I'll measure that up properly. which should be mildly relevant for you. Its a TDO6H in TD07 housing's and I can't see a 3582 being smaller then it.

[Dale FZ1]

Definitely, it helps. Thanks.

I think you'll need a build thread to give detail on the engine spec, and how the TDO6/7 fits and matches the engine. I'd imagine that the turbine housing was larger than 10cm.

What size wastegate takeoff did you spec on the manifold? I recall that Russman had to go with a 50mm tube and big gate to work with the 1.06 housing on the GTX3076.

[urtwhistle]

I'm too lazy to write a build thread. That and this motor has been together for over a year but I would write a spec list for the dyno sheet thread.

The turbine housing is a 12cm btw and I'm using a turbosmart compgate. I have no idea if it will be big enough though

[GTScotT]

It will be big enough IMHO, L2 10cm is good on a RB25 and id be willing to try it on a dirty 30.

I can only imagine ur H 12cm will be pretty cool and have bucketloads of power in its band. GL with it mate, keen to see the results.

[Tommyd32gtst]

So should I buy one of these manifolds to run my kinugawa td06-25g on my rb20 or just do the external waste gate modification to my stock manifold

[urtwhistle]

Yay got my turbo in the post today Dale, will take some pics with it bolted on the manifold soon. I have posted some of it unbolted with a ruler showing its size in the Kando thread if its of interest. I'm actually shocked its not bigger really.

[Dale FZ1]

Thanks.

[GTScotT]

So should I buy one of these manifolds to run my kinugawa td06-25g on my rb20 or just do the external waste gate modification to my stock manifold

definitely get a manifold. the RB20 needs all the help it can get and the stock turbo gate mod isnt a perfect world sort of mod. A manifold like this brings you closer to an all round good setup

[urtwhistle]

As requested here is some pics of my turbo on the manifold.

[zebra]

heaps of room

[urtwhistle]

Hey people I thought I might give some hint's to fitting 1 of these manifolds to save you all a lot of screwing around. I actaully think it would be the same for any aftermarket manifold tho so it's not directed solely at this 1. PS this is on my R34 GTT

1. Make sure every single stud is threaded into the head as far as physically possible. (see step 3 for reasons why)

2. IF your motor is on an engine stand (you lucky bas%%rd because it will be sooo much easier to do) fit the manifold onto the head and put all the nuts and washer on and check that all of the washers clamp down flat on the manifold. I had about 3 that wouldn't because the weld on the flange/runner ran too close. I couldn't be bothered removing every thing for the 4th time So ground a small chamfer on those few washers. But I could have ground the weld quicker if I had checked right from the beginning.

3. The bottom bolts are an a**hole of a job to first get the washer's and nuts onto to start with than get with a spanner. I personally if I had the time to kill I would actually trim the bottom studs 5mm shorter as it would have saved my bloody nuckels and therefore I wouldn't have had a problwith trying to get all the bottom washer's on without the nuts trying to not knock all the washers off prior to screwing the nuts on.

4. cylinder 5 bottom stud deffinitly needs to be shortend 5mm on mine as it actually contacts the runner as it bends down and past the stud. which is a major pain in the a$$ when you finally get it all on and the gasket compresses.

5. Do not wrap the 1st inch of the runners in heat wrap or you wont be able to get the washers onto the studs and you will swear alot. I know my neighbours now hate me.

6. there is alot of welding slag & swarf in the manifold that you don't want flying through turbo. What I did was get a strong but bendy peice of wire and wrap a rag onto it and thread it through each runner which will pull off any loose bits then blow it out with a compresser.

7. I personally think the manifolds should be made in either T3 or T4 not both. The hole in the flange is then a really odd size which gaurentee's the turbo will need to be port matched my a country mile.

8. I personally also think that the head flange bolt holes are too large and give too much slop and therefore too much chance of miss alignment. I think they should be closer to 2mm larger to studd OD instead of what it is. I would have prefered to have had to notch the odd hole with a die grinder than be sloppy.

Other than points 7&8 for the price it is a fantastic product.

[Crans]

What are you doing about the aircon line and the wastegate port? Mine sits on top of each other. My current plan is to wrap the aircon line in reflective heat wrap and use steel cable ties to hold it to the chaiis as tight as possable.

Will this work?

[RDIRTY4]

Hey people I thought I might give some hint's to fitting 1 of these manifolds to save you all a lot of screwing around. I actaully think it would be the same for any aftermarket manifold tho so it's not directed solely at this 1. PS this is on my R34 GTT

1. Make sure every single stud is threaded into the head as far as physically possible. (see step 3 for reasons why)

2. IF your motor is on an engine stand (you lucky bas%%rd because it will be sooo much easier to do) fit the manifold onto the head and put all the nuts and washer on and check that all of the washers clamp down flat on the manifold. I had about 3 that wouldn't because the weld on the flange/runner ran too close. I couldn't be bothered removing every thing for the 4th time So ground a small chamfer on those few washers. But I could have ground the weld quicker if I had checked right from the beginning.

3. The bottom bolts are an a**hole of a job to first get the washer's and nuts onto to start with than get with a spanner. I personally if I had the time to kill I would actually trim the bottom studs 5mm shorter as it would have saved my bloody nuckels and therefore I wouldn't have had a problwith trying to get all the bottom washer's on without the nuts trying to not knock all the washers off prior to screwing the nuts on.

4. cylinder 5 bottom stud deffinitly needs to be shortend 5mm on mine as it actually contacts the runner as it bends down and past the stud. which is a major pain in the a$$ when you finally get it all on and the gasket compresses.

5. Do not wrap the 1st inch of the runners in heat wrap or you wont be able to get the washers onto the studs and you will swear alot. I know my neighbours now hate me.

6. there is alot of welding slag & swarf in the manifold that you don't want flying through turbo. What I did was get a strong but bendy peice of wire and wrap a rag onto it and thread it through each runner which will pull off any loose bits then blow it out with a compresser.

7. I personally think the manifolds should be made in either T3 or T4 not both. The hole in the flange is then a really odd size which gaurentee's the turbo will need to be port matched my a country mile.

8. I personally also think that the head flange bolt holes are too large and give too much slop and therefore too much chance of miss alignment. I think they should be closer to 2mm larger to studd OD instead of what it is. I would have prefered to have had to notch the odd hole with a die grinder than be sloppy.

Other than points 7&8 for the price it is a fantastic product.

^ THIS!

I just fitted one of these to my 34 GTT a couple of weeks ago...... My neighbours now know every swear word known to man!

[urtwhistle]

What are you doing about the aircon line and the wastegate port? Mine sits on top of each other. My current plan is to wrap the aircon line in reflective heat wrap and use steel cable ties to hold it to the chaiis as tight as possable. Will this work?

oh yeah forgot bout that. We cut the port about 100mm from the bottom and put a small angle on it more toward the motor so the waste gate was in a better position