Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 478
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm definitely in, based on what else is needed to fit them... All listings state cars with factory HID's...However, most are removed for compliance.. If it's pretty straight forward to get these working... im in for a BLACK HOUSING set.. 2003 Coupe

^^^ incorrect. Despite the fact that Aus compliance states that ALL factory HIDs without self-levelling and self-washing facilities need to be removed to meet ADRs, when I was shoppping for a V35 I couldn't find one without HIDs! I think there are WAY more with HIDs than without.

But if you buy an aftermarket HID kit which are as cheap as $200 now you could fit them into these new lights with basic meachnical/auto electrical skills. You only need to modify a couple of wires, and install a power wire to the battery on a relay. I did it on my S15 and R34 - pretty easy job!

the seller said Zenki (early) and Kouki (late) models are both ok.

Confirmed List:

Chrome housing:

1. 4evershiva

2. 81gSKy y

3.Nightcrawler

4. Thinktea

Black housing:

1.Dreadnought

2.Megahowler

3.Runner4life

Edited by shiva

the seller said Zenki (early) and Kouki (late) models are both ok.

Confirmed List:

Chrome housing:

1. 4evershiva

2. 81gSKy y

3.Nightcrawler

4. Thinktea

Black housing:

1.Dreadnought

2.Megahowler

3.Runner4life

DO you have a pic of the back of these lights? im curious if the have the factor HID hole that fits the ballast and then you run the wires through the headlights and then use the HID bulb??

See the below pic, look at the area above the white box, thats where the factory HID ballast goes..

http://www.sabersport.com/Merchant2/images/headlight/02-AZ-IG03-PCC-HID-RF-2D-02.jpg

my car has hid lights, couldnt tell you if they are factory. they where there when i bought it. im not the first owner in aust. but if they will work with any hid's ill def be in for a chrome set. thanks

hey Sheldon, can you give a plain and simple answer so everyone's question can be answered.......i know you had some trouble to get the LHD to RHD in your lights but apart from that is it a big deal to get the lights fixed into the car with RHD specifications and is it legal?

Jesse's Payment options:Direct your enquiries to [email protected]

for a larger order like this an international transfer will work out a

little cheaper.

bank charges and options are as follows.

Paypal <- will be instant and you have buyer protection, Im also

protected from exchange rate changes as I can send you the bill in

JPY. Has a 4% fee and they dont give the advertised exchange rate ,

works out the most expensive way to transfer money.

Local transfer in AUD to my NAB account <-this has no buyer

protection, Im open to exchange rate changes so can be burnt if the

AUD takes a quick dive. no straight fees but the rate they give is

~3.3yen down on the advertised exchange rate. This is how I do most

of my transfers from Aus due to ease of transfer for the customer and

cheaper rates than Paypal.

International Transfer <- slow, a little complicated for you to send

money, takes a week for the money to clear into my Japanese account.

No buyer protection. They will give the advertised exchange rate and

as the money can be sent in JPY Im safe from exchange rate changes.

They do have large flat fees though, depending on the bank you use

on your side fees range from $0 to $25 and then there is an additional

4000yen receiving fee on my side. This kind of transfer only works

well with transfers over ~$1500 worth (this is how most car exporters

move money around)

Im ok with any of those ways so which ever suits you is ok.

*Ill only need the purchase cost of the tail lights up front and will

charge my commission and shipping costs after they have reached me and

have been weighed up.

Jayce - I Have aftermarket headlights from U.S

I have attached the link below.

Took me and A mate about 5 hours - hard bit is getting front bumper off. But second time its simple with practice. Sock might be easier - have the nismo one.

Post me with any questions mate.

3470-projector-headlights.asp&docid=vCQhRAQNqisyRM&imgurl=http://www.slickcar.com/products/LHP-G35032JM-TM9241885E-02.jpg&w=750&h=750&ei=-PVXT8b3OuyhmQW4m-DADw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=610&vpy=193&dur=234&hovh=225&hovw=225&tx=95&ty=153&sig=110179230568841931979&page=1&tbnh=142&tbnw=142&start=0&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0&biw=1151&bih=786

Jesse's Payment options:Direct your enquiries to [email protected]

for a larger order like this an international transfer will work out a

little cheaper.

bank charges and options are as follows.

Paypal <- will be instant and you have buyer protection, Im also

protected from exchange rate changes as I can send you the bill in

JPY. Has a 4% fee and they dont give the advertised exchange rate ,

works out the most expensive way to transfer money.

Local transfer in AUD to my NAB account <-this has no buyer

protection, Im open to exchange rate changes so can be burnt if the

AUD takes a quick dive. no straight fees but the rate they give is

~3.3yen down on the advertised exchange rate. This is how I do most

of my transfers from Aus due to ease of transfer for the customer and

cheaper rates than Paypal.

International Transfer <- slow, a little complicated for you to send

money, takes a week for the money to clear into my Japanese account.

No buyer protection. They will give the advertised exchange rate and

as the money can be sent in JPY Im safe from exchange rate changes.

They do have large flat fees though, depending on the bank you use

on your side fees range from $0 to $25 and then there is an additional

4000yen receiving fee on my side. This kind of transfer only works

well with transfers over ~$1500 worth (this is how most car exporters

move money around)

Im ok with any of those ways so which ever suits you is ok.

*Ill only need the purchase cost of the tail lights up front and will

charge my commission and shipping costs after they have reached me and

have been weighed up.

I should allaborate a bit on my previous post - for everyones benefit.

Long story short;

- Factory HID's - Fitted straight into my Headlights from the U.S. They sit perfectly in the aftermarket metal clip and the ballast screws to the bottom - per stock set up.

- Yes - you can do it yourself - there is no wiring required - unless you want to light up the Halo's (I only have the LED sttip). In which case - Cut wire and solder it in. The front bumper needs to be removed. give yourself 5 hours or so if you havent dont this before from start to finish.

- NO they will not be legal. However - most workshops will give you a roadworthy but just notify you that if you're asked to take them out due to defect - do it.

- The lights will not point correctly immediateley after install.... you will need to spend time toggling the left and right / up and down screws in the back of the lights. You need to understand where the stock set up points - so you can adjust accordingly. Test this about 15M from a wall and If possible mark on the wall where the stock set up sits. On the V series you will notice the left light points slightly higher and to the side of the road. The right hand light (the one that will shine in traffic's eyes) needs to be put as low and straight as practically possible. This can alleviate some of the problems with no self leveling.

If anyone needs tips, Im happy to help out. Done the job on two cars now....and I work in Bank - so any one can do it!

Cheers

Thanks for the info dude but we are planning on getting these from japan, which should be RHD compliant, so we dont have to fiddle with the light settings.......

I should allaborate a bit on my previous post - for everyones benefit.

Long story short;

- Factory HID's - Fitted straight into my Headlights from the U.S. They sit perfectly in the aftermarket metal clip and the ballast screws to the bottom - per stock set up.

- Yes - you can do it yourself - there is no wiring required - unless you want to light up the Halo's (I only have the LED sttip). In which case - Cut wire and solder it in. The front bumper needs to be removed. give yourself 5 hours or so if you havent dont this before from start to finish.

- NO they will not be legal. However - most workshops will give you a roadworthy but just notify you that if you're asked to take them out due to defect - do it.

- The lights will not point correctly immediateley after install.... you will need to spend time toggling the left and right / up and down screws in the back of the lights. You need to understand where the stock set up points - so you can adjust accordingly. Test this about 15M from a wall and If possible mark on the wall where the stock set up sits. On the V series you will notice the left light points slightly higher and to the side of the road. The right hand light (the one that will shine in traffic's eyes) needs to be put as low and straight as practically possible. This can alleviate some of the problems with no self leveling.

If anyone needs tips, Im happy to help out. Done the job on two cars now....and I work in Bank - so any one can do it!

Cheers

*** Light comes on in Brain***

My bad - yes i see that now! Best of luck with it.

I can recommend importmonster.com.au in that case. Lots of OEM bits.

Cheers

Thanks for the info dude but we are planning on getting these from japan, which should be RHD compliant, so we dont have to fiddle with the light settings.......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I can recommend the partial AV system translation CD I ordered from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. Whilst it didn't address the date issue, it has conveniently translated on-screen menu items into English, and now allows the GPS-received time to be offset in hours rather than minutes, so I can display Eastern Australian time accurately ( and bump it by another hour when daylight savings starts ).
    • Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.
    • I'd be curious to hear more. Otherwise, have you driven a modern x-trail? I wonder how it compares. Here in Australia they are/were popular for rentals and fleet vehicles. I have been in some and my impression was they are bad. But, this may have been very different in the 2000s at a good trim level. Twenty years is plenty of time to make the model worse. I do very much agree with the 2 silver cars in the garage approach. But, not driving because it's too hot would not leave a lot of time in the year for many Australians. I don't think you need to worry too much unless the car has actual issues with overheating. 
    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
×
×
  • Create New...