Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heres my ride

running a 9 turn motor, 2s lipo few hop ups to the suspension and drive line, ditched a few things to make it lighter, she weighs just over 1 kilo.

the wheels are gay iv got a set of light weight jap wheels with decent dish on the way, gotta respray the body also

img0210vr.jpg

Edited by G4orce
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Bubba you have a few track to choose from:

- Baywater on moojebing Street on Sunday morning

I could walk there! :P I know they used to do nitro onroad a while ago but got shut down or something.. didn't know there was drifting there :blink:

Is it competetive or are n00bs tolerated? it's not on PVC/ABS is it? I built this rig to torch rubber

Sorry Bubba, no drift just pure "proper" racing. I am not a drifter by no means, but any of the racers at a competitive level give em a set of slicks/pvc and about 2 laps to warm up and they are as good as anyone.

Have had a bash before with some drift tyres and picked it up pretty easy...... then went back to racing :-) i didnt feel the same adrenaline as the speeds that are achieved in racing.

just an fyi, you were right, bayswater used to run nitro on the cement and electric on the clay track next to it. Local residents went to bayswater council regarding the noise of the nitro and therefor where not not allowed to race, so electric has now come along and the lap times they are getting is unbeleivable.

At the recent nationals 104km/h was clocked down that 35 metre straight. unbeleivable!

Brushless mod. Guy called Toby was driving it, he didn't place to well though overall but was definitely one of the fastest down the straight.

Lrp modified brushless I think it was

Would have been an X-ray I'm sure, most of the top racers here in wa run the X-rays with parts readily available

Turn related more to brushed motors, now with brushless turns are rated a little different, 3.5 brushless Lrp if memory serves me correct what you would be after but in no way should it be put in a tt01.

Google feral batteries, have good prices on the motors and li-pos you would need to get to that speed. You would also need an electronic speed controller esc for short to power it

FYI, motor would have been something along the lines of this:

http://www.teamassociated.com/lrp/parts/details/LRP50712/

ESC would have been something along the lines of this:

http://www.teamtekin.com/r1.html

the tekin ESC really seems to be the most popular one at the moment.

Prob looking at about $400 plus you will need a decent lipo battery ($100) so $500. most importantly though, can you control it?

You will need to ensure all your trimming etc is good, plus make sure you have a spectrum module radio to go with it, you dont want to be going flat tack to have your radio clash with another frequency otherwise BYE BYE car.

  • 2 weeks later...

if you're into RC Drifting, or just want to see how the pros do it in a competition series, go to http://superhappydrift.com fierce competition from the top 16 rc drifters in VIC.

Guaranteed entertainment with hosts, promo girls, judges and so on. BBQ and carpark on site. you need to be on guest list to be allowed in, simply fill the form as studio audience and you're in.Bring the kids too!

This is the Biggest RC Drift show in History. You are welcomed to join us, whether competing, judging or be in the audience. There are also sponsorship packages if you're interested to advertise with us( we have lots of sponsors already ). The show is going to be broadcast on international TV , think sports/drama/entertainment series show.

It's this Sunday the 25th of March.

We need more tandem drift commentators, if you think you got the goods , let us know too!

CSHD-call-for-entries.png

Thank you!

Edited by M'ck'y

oooh, ive seen that clip before. what the go with the vr camera thingy!? nice vid by the way :thumbsup:

i've just got back into racing 21.5T blinky, TC6/Reedy/NovakGTBII. i'll post up a pic later.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not noticeably. Arguably, the catless turbo is going to work harder in a different direction, as it will spool up faster, go to higher speeds more easily. Only if it was tuned in the original condition. If it was a stock tune, using the AFM before and after the cat/dump change, then no, no retune needed. If the car is running on a MAP sensor, then it might well benefit from a retune. It might even run a little dangerously without a retune, but it could quite easily be fine.
    • We had this blend that uses 98RON + 10% Ethanol which brought it to 100RON. It's no longer available anymore unfortunately.
    • Does it make a difference in your turbo having a shorter life if you have a cat converter as it causes that back pressure versus less/no back pressure with a decat? (Not sure if this is accurate) Also slightly different question if you went from a oem cat to a decat or vice versa will it require a tune? I heard if you change the dump pipe onwards it requires a tune?
    • No. Have only gotten as far as contemplating the task of having to put in the required fairly heavy wiring and fusing to run it (along with the big alternator), and preferring not to. But otherwise, it would be nice to have a little extra freedom as to exactly where the compressor is located and free up some space around the exhaust side of the engine.
    • Following from this in a related by not closely-related sense... Because I was buying a bunch of other GKTech stuff, I got some rear subframe collars. The history that leads up to this is: 25+ years ago the car arrived into the country with stock subframe bushes. At some point shortly thereafter I added Whiteline pineapple rings, set up neutral, and it improved the rear end behaviour. Well, it is my vague memory that I was happier with it with them in. Less axle tramp on launches, generally better, etc etc. ~2012 it got a new non-HICAS subframe with new stock bushes. No pineapple rings. I reckon that ever since then I've been dissatisfied with the axle tramp. Recently I've been f**king around a lot with all aspects of the suspension. One contemplation has been to relocate the rear lower control arm front mount points (and do the other things needed to make that work) to improve longitudinal rear grip by getting rid of some of the stupid anti-squat that Nissan ladled into the R32. But.... before doing that I thought I'd put some collars in. And.... The collars are good. The rear sounds a little bit different, but there has been no significant increase in NVH coming up into the body. In terms of rear behaviour - expansion joints on long sweeping elevated freeway ramps that would sometimes cause the rear to jiggle around a bit, no longer seem to do so. It appears that jamming chunks of metal into the gaps in the rubber so they can't move much is a really good thing. And the launch behaviour and general forward traction situation seems to be greatly improved too. It's impossible to be really sure, because the tyres are completely shagged - they are freakishly willing to let go right now. But as an A-B test with the same tyres it certainly seems to grip up a lot better. Highly recommended to anyone who still has stock bushes.
×
×
  • Create New...