Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25DET cranks but won't fire!!

ice180

By ice180,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ice180 Mentor

ice180

Posted
Posted

Hi guys and gals just got a nice R33 GTS-T in today with some nice mods.. Picked it up from the import yard, got 100 metres down the road, stalled it pulling out onto a main road - damm that twin plate clutch, and couldn't get it to start again. It woudl crank over slowly trying to catch felt like it was flooded... Then then battery died, so we tried jump starting it but still no go... Now it seem to crank over reallly fast with no sign of firing. Even put more fuel in... Also still a slight smell of fuel... Can hear fuel pump come on as well so its not that. It also has a remote start and factory remote immobiliser. Other weird thing is that the ignition stays on for about 20 sec with all the warning lights on the dash for about 20 sec after you take the key out... Can't find a turbo timer anywhere....

I am thinking it could be the immobiliser but not sure... Will try today to take the cover off pull a spark plug out and see if any spark.. Will also maybe take the cam cover off to check the timing belt and then check all fuses as well. Any other hints?? Sorry its an RB25DET engine.. Someone also said take the oil cap off and see if you can see the camshaft turning?

I had this problem in a Soarer once turns out it was the igniter module and two fuses.... but the Nissan has the amplifier on the back of the engine....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3923-rb25det-cranks-but-wont-fire/
Share on other sites
ex-static Grand Master

ex-static

Posted
Posted

Yea only thing I can think of is fuses or sensors..

similar thing happened on my VL (RB30det) and it was either the Fuel Pump fuse, or the CAS ( I dont think the rb25s have a CAS though)

But it does sound like some weird ignition thing.. has it got an ITC or anything? Did it start ok when you first started it?

nissaner Mentor

nissaner

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by ice180

Other weird thing is that the ignition stays on for about 20 sec with all the warning lights on the dash for about 20 sec after you take the key out...  Can't find a turbo timer anywhere....  

the turbo timer might be the one like i had which was built in with the alarm system...

ice180 Mentor

ice180

Posted
  • Author
Posted

where do I start>???

hks 2530 turbo

apexi fuel reg

Nismo 550cc injectors

HKS front mount cooler

greddy profec b boost controller

front and rear strut braces

trac control and active LSD

four greddy electronic gauges

Nismo 300kmh dash

Tein suspension

Chipped ECU

300zx AFM

remote start and timer

Nismo twin plate clutch..

some poofy cushions as well as 3 layers of mats in the passenger side.

Bozz Proficient

Bozz

Posted
Posted

I had mine do that as well, when I started it, I stalled it almost immediately and then it started cranking but not a single sign of life - it was cranking very fast, not like when its starting up, it was cranking as if all spark plugs were removed and there was no compression.

I ended up tearing my hair out until I unplugged the variable cam timing solenoid then it started cranking normally and fired after a few coughs and splutters, then I plugged the solenoid back in and all was well.

  • 2 months later...
S13 Silvia Enthusiast

S13 Silvia

Posted
Posted

I've been cranking my rb20 over the past few days trying to work out why it isn't receiving spark. This means that there would be fuel entering the cylinder's but not getting fired. Over repeated attempts to start it, could this non-burnt fuel build up in the spark plug gap so that by the time I find the problem, it wouldn't fire anyway coz of the build up of fuel? Or would the build up in the gap be minimal if at all?

SLY33 Mentor

SLY33

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by ice180

  It woudl crank over slowly trying to catch felt like it was flooded...  

I had this exact problem. Really pissed me off! had a petrol smell and it seemed the engine was pumping fuel thru even though it wouldnt start. What it turned out to be was a vacuum hose came off this thing here (in the picture attached) dunno what it is, but plugged it on and it went perfect straight away.

SLY33 Mentor

SLY33

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Bozz

Sly33 what that yellow arrow points to is the air bleed tap for your cooling system, its not an air hose but a water hose.

Oops, thanks for pointing that out! Im in sydney and my car is in adelaide- i guess i cant remember the hose! when i get back ill check which one it really was :D:):D :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Milkmun
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • B-Boi34
      UniClutch

      By B-Boi34 · Posted

      I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Kinkstaah
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...