Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Dude just letting you know just posting a problem like with with little description is a way to just get flamed. More info would be good if you would like help but if you aren't too good with cars just take it to a mechanic.

im good with cars more info like age it is a 1994 50,000km we have done clutch fluid and gear oil i used castrol vmx-m 75-85 filled till it came out the hole the problem started 1 week ago all the work was done 4 weeks ago so dose any one know?

It has nothing to do with your oil, sounds like your clutch is not disengaging properly so try your master cylinder or slave cylinder for leaking fluid as it sounds like there is not enough pressure it may even be the clutch pedal.

Also reverse is a straight cut gear not helical like all the others so it should be that slight bit harder to get into gear as they are not meshed like a helical gear, just use your muscle and throw it into reverse and you wont have a problem.

he said the clutch may be dragging and if the oil is low or the wrong type he said it may spin the gear faster and been strait cut it will grind and not go in to place like the other gears but he said the clutch splines could be sticking or the slave isnt pushing out enough

My non-turbo 34 does the same thing most mornings on cold start, goes in but makes a horribly grinding/whirring noise.. pop it out of gear, pump the clutch a few times and put it back in, no worries. If I pump the clutch a few times BEFORE trying to put it into reverse for the first time, it doesn't do it.

This leads me to suspect there is a tiny bit of air in the system..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a follow-up on this topic. From what I can tell so far the rusty residue on the engine block might be unrelated to a coolant leak or maybe just older than anticipated. After driving it from the winter garage to my friend's garage I could not see any new traces of coolant leaking there, but I will test this properly once I was able to fully warm up the car and drive it for a bit. I think I can agree that the whole porous engine block stuff is kind of nonsense, but there is just a silly amount of true, false and half-true information on anything Skyline-related on the internet.
    • hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening     
    • I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
×
×
  • Create New...