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Hey guys and girls, Got a bunch of stuff in the garage that ive collected over the years from the cars ive stripped, but its time to get rid of them.

- Pair of R34 GTT headlights both are in very good condition, RH headlight has one mounting tab missing. They come with the eyelids eyebrows whatever theyre called. painted bayside blue $700 ONO

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- Pair of R34 GTT front 4 piston calipers, were taken off an R34 with 60,000kms Very good condition, seals intact etc.. Comes with mounting bolts and pads that look very new. $320

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- Genuine Garrett 2530 turbo, dont know where i got this from its been that long! Dont know whats wrong with it but looks like it definitely needs a rebuild. Both compressor wheels look fine. Comes as you see it, no waste-gate actuator. $200 ONO

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- WORK VS KF $2600

The wheels are chrome, only one of them is sprayed black to see what it would look like. Can be easily removed with turps.

Fronts are 19X10 +12 offset 10cm dish. Rears are 19X11 +13 offset 12cm dish

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- Standard R34 tail lights good condition $150

- Complete set of 4 standard R34 GTT shocks, came off an R34 with 60,000km on the clock, rubbers etc intact no leaks or knocks! $250 ONO

- R33 GTST inlet manifold mostly comes with throttle body and sensors etc $100 Sorry no pics at the moment but will get some if required?!

CONTACT me on 0432544363 if you want a quick reply as im fairly busy Or alternatively PM me

Edited by RJ06

Also got a pair of Series 3 R33 GTR tail lights, Has a red foglight where the reverse light is. $200

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  • Latest Posts

    • A little more work this week.  Fitted astra power steering pump in the boot with a lowe fabrication bracket. Gave the pump a good clean, fitted Anderson plug and high pressure fitting. With the intercooler being flipped under rad support factory headlights weren't going to work. Ordered a set of origin battle lights, they arrived so got them test fitted. Will require some fiddling to fit nice but was an easy quick option for now. And today we pulled out the manual Rb gearbox and test fitted a ZF 8HP50. It will fit with some casting tabs cut off and small tap of the tunnel with a hammer. Pick up the adapter plate Wednesday so hopefully all bolted in Friday and measure for tailshaft which will be a 2 piece. Been doing a lot of ecu, pdm and tcu loom design so when comes to wiring it in a few weeks will all go smoothly.
    • FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
    • One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.
    • Welp, you've got a long list of experiences right there. I'd say you're on the right path.
    • That's correct, suits my requirements a bit better. Sure there are also numpties there, however it's generally a different vibe and more my kind of vibe.
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