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Morning fella's

Car

1992 model 180sx RPS13

Non sunroof

Champagne in color (resprayed 2010) black roof

17 inch rays gramlights

Manual 5speed

150XXX ks (rebuilt)

Rego till march 2012

RWC negotiable

Bottom end- Biult by Precision engines in march 2010

Spool imports engine package. Including

CP forged pistons

Spool forged H beam Rods

Cometic MLS head gasket

APR head studs

ACL race series main bearings

ACL race series big end bearings

Alloy pulley kit

Head

HKS 264 cams

Ported head

Split fire coilpacks

Greddy intake manifold, Plenum (Freddy)

70mm alloy throttle body

Fueling

bosch 040 intank

550cc injectors (spare 850cc sards)

rising rate fuel pressure regulator (with gauge)

braided fuel lines

Z32 fuel filter

Usual mods

3" turbo back exhaust

Hi-flow cat

volume adjustable Varex muffler

Greddy front mount intercooler

Apexi air filter in custom air box

Cooling pro Silicon intake pipe

M-spec oil catch can (not a drop in it, no blow by)

Alloy 52mm radiator, r33 skyline viscous fan

Gktech 3mm alloy sump bash plate

GKtech over flow bottle

Gktech bell mouth dump pipe

Engine torque damper

Tomei coil pack cover

Areial spoiler and rear wiper revomved and shaved.

Electronics

Apexi power FC

Microtech Lt10's

Apexi AVC-r boost controller

Z32 air flow meter

JDM Option water and oil temp gauges (never ever overheats)

Autometer oil pressure + boost gauges

Alpine USB single din MP3 player

FET turbo timer

Suspension + handling

Tein HA coilovers. height + damper and camber adjustable

Cusco rear adjustable camber arms (could be copys)

Cusco front adjustable caster rods (could be copys)

30mm sway bars

Alloy subframe bushes

GKTech rear strut bar

N-power front strut bar

Driveline

Excedy cusion button clutch

Nismo short shifter

Kaaz 2way dif

Rays Gramlight 57s

Z32 brake upgrade

Slotted and cross drilled front rotors

will maybe Swap for more suitable car of value around 10k. But quick cash sale $7500 no F**KN around. Cheap as chips! Found a car i want to get this weekend, so if its not sold by then price will go up to $10,000

And if it dosn't sell ill keep it =)

After R34 GTT or R33 GTs-t (late model) or R32 GTR, Or s15, Cash adjustment your way is fine for the right car'

0434496747

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Edited by jonesl
  • 2 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • yeah I have brown peeking out from in between some metal sheets close to the hood hinges. Strut towers look fine, even around the edges. some images https://imgur.com/a/brGt3Tu the one that looks the worst is the panel(s) going away right near the firewall on the passenger side, from underneath. Driver side does not look that bad.
    • I presume you are talking about a C34? Have you seen the buyers guide? https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92065-buyers-guide-the-nissan-c34-stagea/ It's what got me to sign up to the forums when I bought mine. What kind of insight are you after? Up front I'd probably suggest to not get tempted by the poverty-spec models. I can't imagine a RB20DE to be engaging to drive in a 1600kg car.
    • yeah I try to be positive. Time will tell what becomes of it. Realistically my only other choice than to just deal with all the issues is to walk away and just sell it agai, at a loss.     I know a fair bit about these cars and knew before buying. I will try to deal with the rusty spots without tearing apart the metalwork for now. Sooner or later I probably will have to bite the bullet and do (or ge done) the arguably worst job an a 33/34 Skyline.
    • I'm aware that you can sink endless amounts of money into an engine. I don't want that kind of engie though. My power goal is 500, maybe 600hp at the max. I can get by with the nearly stock engine that I have now for that purpose and if it does need a rebuild at some point I would choose longer lasting components instead of the most ridiculously hp-rated ones. And do all the essentials of course.
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