Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I got an 1996 GTST r33 and want to up the boost.

What i am wondering is how much i can safely run on my car without doing damage.

and will it be very noticeable if i raise it??

At the moment i have 2 stage boost control wich is 8 or 12 psi boost...

Things that have been done to the car is:

Monster air cooler

stainless steel extractors

pod filter

3" exhaust from turbo

spitfire coils

bla bla bla....

so yer if anyone could offer any advice or that would be much appreciated.

Thank you

2 Bar <IMG class=bbc_emoticon alt=:P src="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif"> .<BR> <BR>Take it to a tuner and see whats safe, my stock turbo lived on 14 lb for a year before I swapped it out for something bigger.<BR><BR>The stock turbos life is a bit like "how long is a peice of string" when you up the boost, might last a day, might last a year.<BR><BR>Remember though when it goes it will be raining, you will be far from home, it will be night, and it may well lunch your motor.

jeebus... even google answers this for you not hard...

first too results in google for 'how much boost can I run on my r33 gtst'

How Much To Boost Stock Turbo - Skylines Australia

and a video answer

JapanDyno.com How High to Boost Stock R32 R33 R34 RB25DET ...

seriously lazy

or rich and retarded

or just retarded

take your pick, you can choose any three

jeebus... even google answers this for you not hard...

first too results in google for 'how much boost can I run on my r33 gtst'

How Much To Boost Stock Turbo - Skylines Australia

and a video answer

JapanDyno.com How High to Boost Stock R32 R33 R34 RB25DET ...

seriously lazy

or rich and retarded

or just retarded

take your pick, you can choose any three

Now this post owns the OP right across the nut sack and curve balled into the ass. Sideways.

Well done.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before.

Please use the search function in future. It may be found here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums

While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years.

If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...