Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I got an 1996 GTST r33 and want to up the boost.

What i am wondering is how much i can safely run on my car without doing damage.

and will it be very noticeable if i raise it??

At the moment i have 2 stage boost control wich is 8 or 12 psi boost...

Things that have been done to the car is:

Monster air cooler

stainless steel extractors

pod filter

3" exhaust from turbo

spitfire coils

bla bla bla....

so yer if anyone could offer any advice or that would be much appreciated.

Thank you

2 Bar <IMG class=bbc_emoticon alt=:P src="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif"> .<BR> <BR>Take it to a tuner and see whats safe, my stock turbo lived on 14 lb for a year before I swapped it out for something bigger.<BR><BR>The stock turbos life is a bit like "how long is a peice of string" when you up the boost, might last a day, might last a year.<BR><BR>Remember though when it goes it will be raining, you will be far from home, it will be night, and it may well lunch your motor.

jeebus... even google answers this for you not hard...

first too results in google for 'how much boost can I run on my r33 gtst'

How Much To Boost Stock Turbo - Skylines Australia

and a video answer

JapanDyno.com How High to Boost Stock R32 R33 R34 RB25DET ...

seriously lazy

or rich and retarded

or just retarded

take your pick, you can choose any three

jeebus... even google answers this for you not hard...

first too results in google for 'how much boost can I run on my r33 gtst'

How Much To Boost Stock Turbo - Skylines Australia

and a video answer

JapanDyno.com How High to Boost Stock R32 R33 R34 RB25DET ...

seriously lazy

or rich and retarded

or just retarded

take your pick, you can choose any three

Now this post owns the OP right across the nut sack and curve balled into the ass. Sideways.

Well done.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before.

Please use the search function in future. It may be found here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums

While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years.

If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
×
×
  • Create New...