Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It "could" but it really depends on how high your compression is and how much of a threshold it will have for pre-igniting the mix with boost on board. You might find that at 5psi, with some cheapo ducting to try and cool the comp housing, high octane fuel and a few degrees of timing knocked out that it's safe enough but you'd need to monitor knock very closely as I doubt standard Elantra piston ring lands would sustain high levels of knock for extended periods, the real concern though is preignition as it will melt holes in shit before you realise there's an issue.

For the cost of a cheap cooler, you can likely keep the timing where it is and not sacrifice response, run 5psi safely enough, and not have the heartache. Bare in mind that 5psi or not, tuning of "some" sort will be required. You might get away with an SAFC or a Jaycar fuel controller but you will need some way of giving it more fuel than the factory ECU will think it should have at a given point. Without knowing how big the factory injectors are (my guess would be 240-270cc or so) it's hard to know what other hurdles you might follow.

Don't let anyone tell you it can't be done or that it's stupid, if you have the time and money and desire, do whatever the hell you want.

Edited by ActionDan

Totally wrong turbo. A td05 on a 2.0 or 1.8 will not spool well. On an rb20 it spools at about 3 but that a long wait for just .5bar, trust me I've had to put up with that for a while now.

They would work well but im pretty set on a kando atm. U can use the following vid as to boost reference spool times with a td05.

Different car but same motor

Anyway I wont ramble on about a hyundai in a skyline forum to much longer

Ill start a build thread when i start turbiing it. Thanks for all ur help guys

Early 90's Subaru Liberty/Legacy RS Turbos used a water to air intercooler.

you can buy the whole kit for under $100 I'd say.

They seem to be good for about 160awkw on the subies using a TD05 (a mitsu one.. not Kando).

Looks like this in the engine bay

0098_03mg.jpg

it then pumps the water/coolant to a thin condensor/radiator out the front.

Looking at the pic of your old car, you could easily fit the cooler part in that front passenger side of the engine bay.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
×
×
  • Create New...