Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When i try to start the GTR it turns over fine, but coughs to life, and then runs rough and rpm keeps falling until it stalls - which takes about 10 seconds. Throttle doesn't help to raise the revs. What should i check first? I was thinking maybe fuel pump, but its only about 3 years old (sard) so I hope it hasn't died already.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392843-starting-issue/
Share on other sites

Update: no sensor warnings via consult

The car was running fine before I parked it, then dead when i came to start it again, so I think spark plugs are unlikely. I'll try to find a vac leak. Needle in a haystack..... cant use the aerostart trick because it doesnt run long enough.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392843-starting-issue/#findComment-6249575
Share on other sites

Spark plugs unlikely? Sounds EXACTLY like my car after spark plugs were fitted in about a week earlier. Fresh plugs went in. Drove home from work at night. Parked the car. Next day tried to start it up the car coughed and spluttered, started and died then would never fire up. New plugs, started up just fine. Plugs got fouled.

If you've failed to start the car a couple times, every time after that you are wetting your plugs and pretty much f**king them up. Try new plugs, if it doesn't fire up, then try the fuel pump test. Remove the hose from the fuel pump to the rail, put it into a bucket and check its flow for a couple of seconds. If its moving fuel, and you say throttle doesn't help it start, I'm going to say spark related.

I don't know how you would develop a vacuum leak after parking the car but if you did have one, the car will start and just idle rough with alot of black smoke. Ive had minor and major leaks and each time the car does start, its just rough as ass.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392843-starting-issue/#findComment-6249664
Share on other sites

Mate you didn't put petrol in it just prior to the problem? I had a similar thing about 4yrs ago n it ended up that the fuel i put in the night before from a servo that "apparently" didn't sell much v'power (shell servo obviously) let their under ground tanks run so low i got so much rust with my v'power i needed to replace all injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump, remove the Farking tank to flush it, only reason i didnt burn the servo to the ground is the owner paid me $1950 for repairs...he insisted i provided legit tax invoice and information of the w'shop that did the repairs so he could call and verify. Which was easy coz i had a workshop :whistling: hope yours aint same issue hey... I'd suggest you pull plugs out just to determine if its getting fuel, and if theyre fouled up you more than likely have a vacuum leak sumwere thats causing it to have the excess fuel pressure. Does billow black smoke or smell fuely when it does inda run?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392843-starting-issue/#findComment-6249688
Share on other sites

Well i had put in a tank of United 100 as my car seemed to like their 98 a bit more than other 98s, and the station i went to didnt sell the 98 anymore. I haven't smelt fuel. I guess its worth checking how the plugs look as that's pretty easy and will let me know if they're wet with fuel or not. They're iridiums so should be more resistant to fouling than coppers.

The service manual points to fuel pump, so i'll see if supercrap have a pressure tester and get a new filter while i'm at it.

Thanks guys - keep the ideas coming.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392843-starting-issue/#findComment-6249771
Share on other sites

Check if your plugs are getting wet, are the injectors pulsing? Remove a spark plug and touch it to the head, can you see a spark arc? Need to know if you are lacking fuel or spark. My money is still on plugs. fould plugs.won't look any different to working plugs. You were getting coughing and now it's just turning over without any coughing. Would indicate either no fuel flow at all (unlikely), or no spark.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392843-starting-issue/#findComment-6251240
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?
    • It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!
    • As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2.   Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...
    • Rotisserie is fully assembled apart from centre connector which obviously isn't required until the car is on it. It packs away fairly neatly and doesn't take up too much room. (Now that I actually have some room after my clean up!) Overall very happy with the quality of it.  Assembly was a piece of piss.  The only thing I didn't like was that the pins that lock the rotation lock wheels in place were a bit of a dick in a bucket scenario. It allowed the arms to rotate a significant amount even when locked in place.  To fix that i measured up the hole and went and grabbed a couple of 18mm fully threaded bolts and a thread tap to suit. I ran the tap through top and bottom so it was threaded both ends.  Then just threaded the bolt through both sides.  It has made a massive difference which hopefully you can tell in the before and after video how much difference it made. 20250207_161431.mp4   20250207_161431.mp4 Hopefully back working on the car over the next few weeks.   20250207_162801.mp4
    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
×
×
  • Create New...