Jump to content
SAU Community

5 Spped Auto + And -

ChrisB

By ChrisB,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

I "tested" it by going on a long drive in manual mode when I was running the PWR and Mishimoto trans coolers in series (no radiator in tank regulator), both of which were mounted on brackets and not touching the radiator at all.

Was curious as to how hot the coolers got so did the drive and put my hand on the PWR cooler when I got back. It was quite warm. The only time the car was out of manual mode was when reversing out of the driveway.

Scientific? No. Logical? To me, yes.

OK, so now I'm confused. If the gearbox stopped pumping fluid thru the trans cooler/s when in manual mode, wouldn't they be cool(ish) to the touch after a drive using nothing but manual mode?

The standard temp of the fluid should be about water temp or a bit higher (since it flows thru the radiator cooler normally), so did 'quite warm' feel significantly less than say 90 deg?

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

i still dont rekon it completely stops flowing through the cooler. i think it there is a valve that ups the pressure for make it more 'sporty' but at the same time restricting flow to the cooler....... thats my theory anyway

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

OK, so now I'm confused. If the gearbox stopped pumping fluid thru the trans cooler/s when in manual mode, wouldn't they be cool(ish) to the touch after a drive using nothing but manual mode?

The standard temp of the fluid should be about water temp or a bit higher (since it flows thru the radiator cooler normally), so did 'quite warm' feel significantly less than say 90 deg?

That's what i am saying Leon. The cooler was "quite warm" because it was doing its job and cooling the trans fluid.

Whether there was some kind of issue that allowed the fluid through my coolers when in manual mode or not, who knows... but I can't for the life of me think/believe that Nissan would stop the fluid from being cooled when in sports mode.

Just not logical to me.

NFI on the temp. I only put my hand on the PWR cooler but being where it was situated there is no way it could have had heat soak from anywhere on the car.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

That's what i am saying Leon. The cooler was "quite warm" because it was doing its job and cooling the trans fluid.

Whether there was some kind of issue that allowed the fluid through my coolers when in manual mode or not, who knows... but I can't for the life of me think/believe that Nissan would stop the fluid from being cooled when in sports mode.

Just not logical to me.

NFI on the temp. I only put my hand on the PWR cooler but being where it was situated there is no way it could have had heat soak from anywhere on the car.

Great, thanks for clearing that up - I thought you were supporting the 'no cooling in manual mode' team with your info, hence my confusion.

I too thought it strange that Nissan (or anyone) would design the transmission to not send fluid thru the cooler when you would need it most.

That would also help to explain why I couldn't find any reference to this process in info on the ECU/TCM & AT in the manuals.

I'll try to do a similar test sometime to see if my result is the same as yours.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

That "team" was the mob that built my auto, Kewish auto. I didn't doubt them originally as in manual the torque converter is always locked, therefore not flaring causing excess heat.

Now I believe they arent right but I havent bothered checking. Mine could be working in manual mode due to cutting the converter lockup solenoid wiring so best if you guys check.

HER_M35 Enthusiast

HER_M35

Posted
Posted

I have the full Re5 manual at home, there is definitely a cooler valve so it must turn off sometimes.

Perhaps while it's reaching operating temperature it remains closed?

On mine at least, in manual mode, 5th gear isn't available until the box reaches temp either.

I would assume this is also to help it get to temp quicker (or the transmissions f$%(ed pinch.gif)

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Perhaps while it's reaching operating temperature it remains closed?

On mine at least, in manual mode, 5th gear isn't available until the box reaches temp either.

I would assume this is also to help it get to temp quicker (or the transmissions f$%(ed pinch.gif)

That makes much more sense, other than the fact the radiator is used to get the trans fluid up to operating temp quickly.

ChrisB Rising Star

ChrisB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I believe the transmission fluid is always cooled through the radiator both in auto and manual.

The bypass is there as a safety to provide the gearbox with lubrication in the event that the return fluid from the radiator is blocked.

The transmission fluid will never be any cooler than the engine water temperature, hence some people fit aftermarket transmission coolers to give additional cooling closer to ambient air temperature.

At least, this is what a transmission specialist told me.

Still have not got mine booked in to get the the bottom of the problem.

Chris

ChrisB Rising Star

ChrisB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

But how did an RS centre console get into an AR-X....

And would that explain why the gauges do not work, i.e. no senders...

Yep, no senders!

So that's an easy decision.

Anyone need some RS centre console guages?

I'm fitting a double din head unit.

Chris

HER_M35 Enthusiast

HER_M35

Posted
Posted

Yep, no senders!

So that's an easy decision.

Anyone need some RS centre console guages?

I'm fitting a double din head unit.

Chris

I like the look of the unit you mentioned the other day Chris.

We put a very similar double DIN unit in ours a year or so ago, removing the triple gauges and love it!

You could pay a lot more for a brand name but I'd rather spend the money elsewhere on the car.

You won't miss those gauges, they do SFA most of the time and the accuracy of the boost gauge is average at best.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Plus, if you want gauges you can run something like HKS CAMP2 into the video input on the head unit. That's what I'm planning on doing: remove the single DIN stereo and gauges, and put in a double DIN with a HKS CAMP2 wired to the F con.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

If you're lucky you can get one new out of Japan or the US, or there are plenty of second hand ones.

Streeter priced it up for me at around $500 landed out of Japan, but there was also one on ebay motors recently.

Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted

One of the russians is playing with a Camp2. His build thread is pretty interesting in general actually, hes basically a russian Leon in my opinion :P But he rocks awesome stickers as if his name were craig :nyaanyaa:

http://www.avtobazar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3713&sid=d0d5c11922cdf697d4f5e55fb5c5856e&start=416#p140379

Google translate is pretty terrible at russian, but the pictures are good!

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

One of the russians is playing with a Camp2. His build thread is pretty interesting in general actually, hes basically a russian Leon in my opinion :P But he rocks awesome stickers as if his name were craig :nyaanyaa:

http://www.avtobazar...art=416#p140379

Google translate is pretty terrible at russian, but the pictures are good!

well we know where all the left over new parts went! Bloody hell his spent some money with Nissan.....he also has more gimmicks and lights on his car than Andy! :P

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

One of the russians is playing with a Camp2. His build thread is pretty interesting in general actually, hes basically a russian Leon in my opinion :P But he rocks awesome stickers as if his name were craig :nyaanyaa:

http://www.avtobazar...art=416#p140379

Google translate is pretty terrible at russian, but the pictures are good!

LOL. Eugene & I may have a bit in common so I decided to add him to my sig. He's certainly spent some ruples on his Stag. Who was it in WA that had trouble getting the cruise function on the Pivot throttle controller to work (Tom?). Just ask Eugene, he got his working, after a bit...

  • 2 weeks later...
ChrisB Rising Star

ChrisB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So getting back to my transmission problem i have made a discovery.

Firstly the dealer offered to buy me a used transmission that I had found for about $1,300 and said i should pay for the installation as the car was not covered by statutory warranty. Then I realised he had made a mistake and indeed the car was under stat warranty as it was less then 10 years old. Built 05/02 it just gets into the warranty period.

Now the dealer wants me to send the car to a garage in North Melbourne that want to look at the transmission.

(starting to wish i had not questioned the warranty and just taken the replacement transmission when offered)

Now i discover that a mystery switch in the car actually seems to do something.

With the switch in the on position the transmission seems to be fine.

With the switch in the off position, I cant go 30 or 40 K before it goes into limp mode and sometimes it goes into limp mode every few k's.

Resetting the ignition clears the limp mode and all is normal again for a few more k's, maybe.

Question is, what does this switch actually do to patch up a fault in the transmission????

Someone suggested it locks the torque convertor to prevent slip. If it is worn, the trans sees the slip and goes into limp.

What should i do now?

Tell the dealer about the switch, or just leave it in the off position and let the transmission specialist figure it out.

I really don't want a sticking plaster on what could be a major problem, or is this a typicaly normal mod to extend transmission life?

Comments appreciated.

Cheers

Chris

post-72666-0-77508400-1332136249_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...