Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this has been covered a fair few times by myself and other people(mainly p platers) in the past lol, in melb a p plater is not allowed to drive any R33 GTST, b it auto or maunal, be it with 1 tonne of lead in the back or not, it goes by factory weight and factory power output. only way u can do it legally is if its the only car in the family etc but u need documents to ssist in this. cops dont seem to care much, they too busy defecting cars with neon, bovs, guages and other ludacris things

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39301-p-platers/#findComment-798781
Share on other sites

ive seen p platers driving Gtir pulsars and tt 300zxs, but it doesnt really matter i suppose as cops are to busy doing other things the power to weight ratioing your car, if you go to vic roads they have an information sheet stating the types of cars that p platers are not aloud to drive , ie. gtr skyline, 300zx twin turbo...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39301-p-platers/#findComment-798955
Share on other sites

in melb you can own a skyline if you have a business regestered in your name and declare it for business work (it doesnt say anything about actively trading).

In qld ya can drive anything and no speed restrictions only the legal limit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39301-p-platers/#findComment-800229
Share on other sites

yea im bout to get ma p's and i got a r33 gtst in melb and its all under my name and i have no probs with it..............i reakon they make that list just so that they dont have all p platers going out there getting huge performance cars and wiping themsleves out.

:confused:

You can register any car in your name after the age of 16, but that doesn’t mean you can legally drive it on public roads. P platers are getting performance cars. No list or law is ever going to prevent that. You as a p plater are living proof. They might not be wiping themselves out but they're certainly wiping the cars out (checked your insurance premium lately?)

I have worked for the licensing dept at Vicroads (gladly no longer) and can say that R33 GTS25ts are 100% P plate restricted. Wether the coppers enforce the rule is a completely different story.

There is no "list" anymore (altho every car originally on the list is still P plate restricted). The list was phased out in 2000 to make way for the power to weight ratio and the capacity to weight ratio.

IMHO reasons for having such a law are valid, however it needs some serious attention.

Everything in this post relates to Victoria only. I have nfi how it works in other states...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39301-p-platers/#findComment-800854
Share on other sites

So essentially you could make a 500kw car but as long as long as it was under 125kw/tonne from teh factory its legal for P Platers. That would rock.

then they would open your bonnet, see the himount turbo, fmic, pod, bov, boost controller etc, and you will have a nice yellow sticker to go under your p plate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39301-p-platers/#findComment-800857
Share on other sites

i have a question, i believe r31nismoid has pointed this out before. how do they prove this? what if harumomo was driving an r33 gtst that had a restriction value on the air flow meter so that it restricted its airflow to 1/2 its normal throughput therefore it would only output 1/2 tyhe power. would the cops still just fine u?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39301-p-platers/#findComment-801714
Share on other sites

yup, since its the FACTORY sepcifications that matter, not how poorly you've tuned it.

oh and if you live in NSW and you get your Probationary license suspended for illegally racing on the street, you are restricted to 115kw/tonne and sent back to your L's. Why do you think I drive a GTS now n not my 180sx? lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39301-p-platers/#findComment-801731
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...