Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello to All!

Ok, We have had a little accident with our R34 GTR...

We hit a gutter sideways with the back left wheel at a slow speed.

Damage was caused to the Lower control arm and the HICAS steering arm + Lenso Rim.

Question:

We purchased adjustable lower camber control arms. As we need a replacement..

We tried to install it today, but we can not seem to get it to sit properly.

How it the pivot supposed to be sitting in the hub?

We might not have the correct mounting setup. Please advise..

R33GTR.jpg

IMG_1739.jpg

IMG_1991.jpg

IMG_1992.jpg

IMG_1993.jpg

Please let us know! Your help is much appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393270-r34-lower-camber-control-arms/
Share on other sites

No doubt you have dropped the car onto its' wheels to see how the link/ball joint sits at zero deflection or is that pic showing the vehicle at rest? Also, how does the new lower link compare to the original undamaged lower link? Is the pivot ball pin the same length as original? Mounting point triangular measurements OK?

Dunno if this is any help or not & just throwing it out there but for what it's worth I have been looking at this stuff myself for a while now, in pursuit of improved handling but more to do with rear tire wear. My research, such as it is (haha) suggests that you have picked the more complex end of the rear suspension box of tricks to start with performance links whilst keeping the upper bits standard. From what I have gathered I will be starting with adjustable bits at the top of the geometry box & work down, in pursuit of satisfactory rear camber alignment. As I dig deeper the cost goes up until you get to front/rear roll centre geometry which is where you may be at right now Mati.

The adjustable rear lower A arms that I have looked at all seem to have the longer outer ball joint pin to compensate for altered link angles & as part of roll centre correction after car has been lowered 50mm+ which maybe making your lower A arm angles look awkward?

Maybe you could just go with a set of these standard babys (shiny, :yes: see link),to fix your immediate problem of trashed lower A arm, providing the sub-frame mounts are still in alignment after your recent unplanned excursion of course.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-rear-lower-a-arm-set-standard-50190

In any event google IKEYA Formula or similar mobs if you haven't already, they have some good write-ups on the subject & may help to point you in the right direction.

My 2c

Cheers GW

PS: Wheel alignment is on the books?

Edited by 260tech

You have deformed the knuckle aswell if its still sitting like that take it out and cOmpare with other side. Same thing happened to me thought i had only taken out lca but after new one still sat like that.

I have a brand new set of Ikeya Formula lower control arms for the rear, and the white line adjustable top arms if you are interested for a GTR R33-34 I will do at a good price as I bought 2 sets..

The ones you have bought you will find are not a very good fit, the Ikeya are perfect and do not flex at all..

Cheers Dave

0412950192.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi soviet_merlin, We appreciate your concern regarding this possibly being some sort of PR/Political hype, I assure you that is not the case, I wish we could claim something like that, but in this case, we merely reached out for comment on the basis of the outrage we too felt, as those heavily in the automotive industry. Ps. the original source in the social media post is CarExpert not CarExplore.    Best, CE.
    • Made a bit of a discovery, but while I was cruising, I randomly decided to test to see if it worked and it showed up on my IC7. The entire time I tested it before, I never thought to turn the ignition on. I only tested it with head lights turned on but with the ignition off. Huge oversight on my end. I’m a dummy. I know. 
    • G'day all, I have drilled and tapped the hole for the relocation of the timing belt tensioner. That was straight forward. I'm unsure if I need to also put another hole for the smaller stud that the spring behind the tensioner catches on (this is how it seems to work in its original spot). Or do you not use the spring behind it and just torque it down? Thanks in advance, I did a search but couldn't find anything related and it doesn't mention it in the rb30det sau guide.
    • Hi All,  just thought I would provide an update as I know smooth (Matt) was on this forum from 2003.    my brother Matthew passed away end of may 2024 at the age of 41 from liver failure. I am not sure how many of his original team krazy friends are still on here or active but thought it reasonable to let the forum know.    if you have any photos or pictures it would be great if you could share them.    it took me a while to work out he was active on here.    thanks so much 
    • Hi All,  just thought I would provide an update as I know smooth (Matt) was on this forum from 2003.    my brother Matthew passed away end of may 2024 at the age of 41 from liver failure. I am not sure how many of his original team krazy friends are still on here or active but thought it reasonable to let the forum know.    if you have any photos or pictures it would be great if you could share them.    it took me a while to work out he was active on here.    thanks so much   
×
×
  • Create New...