R32 Gtr Stalling On Idle After Rev

[The Mafia]

Ah man you are the biggest wanker I have ever seen post on this site.

No wonder it's slipped over the years and te longer term users have no patience anymore.

Bov issues have been mentioned by knowledgable people twice after me now, and lots I useful answers.

You're a loser, time to put your head back up your ass and magazines.

P.s I know exactly what open and closed loop is, f**kwit.

Edited March 4, 2012 by The Mafia

[Travis32]

Ah man you are the biggest wanker I have ever seen post on this site.

No wonder it's slipped over the years and te longer term users have no patience anymore.

Bov issues have been mentioned by knowledgable people twice after me now, and lots I useful answers.

You're a loser, time to put your head back up your ass and magazines.

P.s I know exactly what open and closed loop is, f**kwit.

well no offense mafia but ur bov theory doesnt work in this instance so along with the other knowledgeable ppl on here we still agree ur hypothesis on this is wrong go back to the lab sheldon

long term users probly dont like u either lol

[Travis32]

was running standard ecu now i got a nistune off jez his played with it to see if it will run on idle after rev but it was a no go changed afms got a little better but nearly zero so lol

[SargeRX8]

well no offense mafia but ur bov theory doesnt work in this instance so along with the other knowledgeable ppl on here we still agree ur hypothesis on this is wrong go back to the lab sheldon

long term users probly dont like u either lol

I think actually if you hook your car up to a wideband you will see he is right.

[GTEES]

haha so entertaining.

now to sort my stalling problem when pulling up at lights, and yes I'm running a stock bov.

[Travis32]

I think actually if you hook your car up to a wideband you will see he is right.

so last time i cheched he is wrong n thats why we all disagree with him.Wide band or not bov has been ruled out so anyother suggestions

[rob82]

As much as he has carried on mafia is correct - having an atmo bov or a no bov or a bov that doesn't open at idle will cause drivability issues. The majority of issues are due to unmeter air or spurious maf reading due to reversion, all these issues are cured by using a STD bov plumbed back. Just because it wasn't stalling before with an atom bov doesn't mean that it wasn't an issue. There is no way to tune around it without causing other tuning issues if you are using a PFC or STD ecu unless they are adding extra functions into ECM which I believe no one is doing(not on these ecms anyway).

Can you tell me what the isc duty is at a hot idle? Should be very low like 15-20%. What is the hot idle speed 950rpm? If it is a dual entry rail is there two pumps or just one? I've never had any issues with genuine sard regs.

Also you will not believe the increase in drivability you will gain with a factory plum back bov. The gain in speed between shifts in my rb30/26dett -5 equipped r32 was huge, so noticeable!

[SargeRX8]

haha so entertaining.

now to sort my stalling problem when pulling up at lights, and yes I'm running a stock bov.

If you've got a custom intake pipe it could cause issues! I know because Ive got everything hooked up as stock and I get a low idle when coming to a stop. It used to stall on me but not anymore. Its either a vacuum leak, boost leak or reversion.

so last time i cheched he is wrong n thats why we all disagree with him.Wide band or not bov has been ruled out so anyother suggestions

In your case yes its not the BOV which is your issue but read below.

Also you will not believe the increase in drivability you will gain with a factory plum back bov. The gain in speed between shifts in my rb30/26dett -5 equipped r32 was huge, so noticeable!

This man speaks word of truth. When I bought my car with the atmo on it. Although it wouldn't stall, gear changes were laggy and they were rough. I mean the engine would shudder because of the rich condition. It was never enough to stall the motor but it definitely did have its effect on the car. Hence why the atmo came off the same day I bought the car. No idea where that piece of shit apexi bov is now haha.

[The Mafia]

so last time i cheched he is wrong n thats why we all disagree with him.Wide band or not bov has been ruled out so anyother suggestions

And this is why my car ran awesome, and your car runs like shit.

Plenty of people here who agree with my proven diagnosis.

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

in my experience, my car would nearly stall with an atmo blitz bovs when i made the swtich, car felt lazy between gears and i was getting less mileage to a tank, swtiched back to stockers and never looked back

[DVS JEZ]

I have recommended the stockers but it has hard piping kit from the turbo's and will need modifying to work.

Trav drain the fuel then get the car registered, then bring it over and ill see what i can do,

We may even try fitting the standard fuel rail just to eliminate the new one, as u said it never did it before

[Travis32]

ok mafia and supporters is gone and yet still same problem

[saliya]

ok mafia and supporters is gone and yet still same problem

you've deleted the atmo BOV and the nonstandard fuel pressure and it's still stalling?

Stock ECU and stock everything now? weird. had your AFMs checked?

[DVS JEZ]

He has fitted my AFM's from my car.

The fuel in his tank is 2years old

[Don Dada]

The fuel in his tank is 2years old

You cant call that fuel anymore!

[Travis32]

You cant call that fuel anymore!

sorry the fuel isnt that old i just forgot that a few months ago i had to put fuel in it plus the car runs fine til u come to intersection.plus as soon as we swapped the plenum and rail over it started doin it straight away so its not fuel

[Don Dada]

Double and triple check all the hoses around and underneath the plenum and make sure they not split and in the correct location, including the ones going to the bov,boost solenoid, brake booster etc.

When it idles normal, is it pulling the same vacuum as it did before?

Edited March 7, 2012 by Don Dada

[sultanaz]

wow this is a good read , out of a massive argument and some decent helpful responses you can still learn a thing or two haha. keep your situation updated please !

[MJTru]

Ok The Mafia I understand you, it makes sense mate. You sound a little like me in the past tune and learning mostly on your own.

I do the same but have a harder problem, as I used to live in a land of dyno's, but know more. Besides all that I learnt from being ignorant, after about 95 g' and a slow Honda turbo crx, oh and lots of sleep less night, I can remember looking at the bootms of empty beer bottles. Well it funny that this is the only thread that fits my situation, after the f--cking money was spent. Well I guess I'm still learning and mut bow to those with more curent and modern knolage.

Well mate here goes, it makes sense but what to do. Everything you say is happening to me. Ok so I don't have a dyno, I do it on open roads with a friend logging, well tuning for mc torque is out cause I can't see that, but if I learnt right, on forced induction cars I I'll get a high knock before torue drop off, in saying this my hands are still tying when it comes to finding that best torque, but I get AFR's reall good with 12.1 12.2 on WOT max load. That's easy its the bits in between that toes so long.

Well after like 8 g's I witch I did read this first. I got my GTR after I max out GTST motors and couldn't get traction for nothing. And after reading on here about how much better a GTR is over a GTST. I finally got one. 1995 with low low milage and paper work from Japan NOSE. Inc.

The car came with stock motor and bov's. Stock FPR.

Trust FMIC

blitz boost contoller

Oil relocation kit with cooler by BLITZ

EXHAUST

Well with just the same added bolt ones. I know like most that the GTR turbos are one of it's first weakness, sounds like when I started the GTST project. Well oreded twin scroll top mount t3 divided coulector manifold from 6boost got a new gtx3582r with twin Tial MVS gates and two HKS Amto Bov's. The problem right there. Well my car now runs just as you describe. Sad.

Starts well and idle well, if I hit the gas it wants to stall, and somtimes it does, the AFR's goes of he charts rich. When cursing at around 70 mph the is a little surge in the. Ars momentum, this surging is related to. I have noticed, to 02 sensor volt reading being inconsistent, AFR's surge with the the cars movement. Remember at cursing it's a small surge at zero boost and vacuum.

Well this is my offer to you Mr. THE MAFIA can I hire you to help me with my problems, I can send fund vis paypal I understand that knolage is power not gas and air. It's just hot at the end of the day.

I'm ingested in you solution and you shouldn't be worried about people learning, well at lest for me I'm around the other side of the earth. Lol

What methods taken to fix this problem, first is to replace the bov's with ones that vent back into to turbos inlet.

Ecu change after getting the power fc?

Well I got happy to have found something I will read on

Thanks mate

[The Mafia]

This thread is back from the dead! haha.

mate, put the stockers back on and get some pipes made up to return the BOV air to the turbo intake. Remember, make sure your intake pipe has a decent bend before the afm (Stops air gonig backwards through the afm) and make sure the BOV return is pointing towards the turbo inlet, not the AFM.

This applies to any ECU that runs an AFM.