Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have been looking at a few r33 gts-t and I came across one that looks quite good. The one issue I had with it was when reading about it they stated it had "4 wheel steering" which from a quick google search explained it to be HICAS.

My question is did all r33's come out with this? I seem to remember that the cars that had this feature were more costly to repair and modify? Or am I just wrong?

The model of the car is a 1993 Nissan Skyline HR33 2D Coupe.

Any help is appreciated, thanks thumbsup.gif

(Also wasn't sure if this should be general discussion or drive train)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393395-4-wheel-steering-hicas/
Share on other sites

It's to improve handling around a track apparently.

Grab a lock bar, weld your diff, win at life.

Just tripple check it exists before you buy the bar.. I've had two N/A 33GTS's, same year model except one had a sunroof, no hicas or ABS and the other had no sunroof, hicas, ABS and more power.

Just pointing out that there are some differences...

Edited by SKITTLES

It's to improve handling around a track apparently.

Last place you want it. The Gibson Nissan Works GTRs had the HICAS removed because they found that if you suddenly backed off in a corner the HICAS became confused and could turn the car around.

Don't understand what everyone has against HICAS - I've never had a problem with it. Maybe you guys just aren't up to driving a car with active steering.

Last place you want it. The Gibson Nissan Works GTRs had the HICAS removed because they found that if you suddenly backed off in a corner the HICAS became confused and could turn the car around.

Don't understand what everyone has against HICAS - I've never had a problem with it. Maybe you guys just aren't up to driving a car with active steering.

i cant help but feel you kind answered your own question there....

It's to improve handling around a track apparently.

Grab a lock bar, weld your diff, win at life.

Just tripple check it exists before you buy the bar.. I've had two N/A 33GTS's, same year model except one had a sunroof, no hicas or ABS and the other had no sunroof, hicas, ABS and more power.

Just pointing out that there are some differences...

Thanks Skittles, I will definitely check them over. I had a look at my mates r32 the other day and that had hicas on it. Was good to see in person what exactly it is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you have a Nissan from Japan and model year is from 2016 to 2024, just say you have an Infiniti Q50 4 doors... Why are telling you have an import?
    • It's definitely not firing order. But I think it should also be made clear that the output that gets fired is the one that corresponds to the input that was switched at the ECU. So you could scramble them up totally so that the numbers meant nothing, and so long as you had the inputs and outputs matched up, you'd be fine. The reason I make that point is that blanket statements about what it is supposed to be don't always hold out in a world where there's been 30 years for the wiring to have been stuffed with.
    • Hello, im asking about this guy - coil igniter on rb25det series 1 r33 s1 engine. I need to know if pins on coil side indicate coils itself from 1-6 or it’s firing order so pin nr1 goes to 1st fired spark plug:(1pin-1firing spark, 2pin-5order firing spark, 3-3, 4-6, 5-2, 6-4…)   photo: https://files.fm/f/k9pdug38uq
    • Remove it. Certainly from the hub face. I'm not in love with leaving it on the wheel assembly surface either - but if it is common to do so, then....maybe fair enough. It's not difficult. Just time consuming. For the hub face you just need a large enough block and suitable grades of abrasive paper to get it off flat. The same would be true of the assembly face. Just more time consuming, probably needing a lot more care. It's defo going to be easier just to assemble the wheels as is, seal them up, and check them periodically to see if there's any movement or loosening of the fasteners, than it will be to remove it though.
    • Hello, I got my wheels powder coated and they've powder coated bloody everything the mating surface and hub (even told them not to lol) anyway should I leave it or remove it. (Would be very hard) I've searched a lot and lots of powder coaters don't mask the mating surface but do mask the hub surface. How bad it powder coat on the mating surface or hub? My question is what should I do?
×
×
  • Create New...