Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yo everyone, im currently 17 (18 soon :cheers:)

I rang up "just Car" insurance for a skyline r33 gts-t i was lookin at for about 19000. it was real nice, turbo, bov the works. the insurance came to about $2700 a yr which is ****in alot :D. that works out to be like 250 a month. ne was to get round this? to make it cheaper????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39352-insurance-for-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

do a search on insurance in these forums :cheers:

and yes thats how much its gonna cost you there are no ways around it unless you put it under parents name which will still work out around the same and if they find out that your driving the car more than stated they can void your insurance alltogether so i suggest you look at other cars or wait untill you hav sum sort of no claim bonus if you think the quote you hav been given is 2 much

yo everyone, im currently 17 (18 soon :))

I rang up "just Car" insurance for a skyline r33 gts-t i was lookin at for about 19000. it was real nice, turbo, bov the works. the insurance came to about $2700 a yr which is ****in alot :). that works out to be like 250 a month. ne was to get round this? to make it cheaper????

That is a GOOD PRICE!! i was quote $4100 @ 17 for my skyline gts-t

no cos if ure a proper driver, you will only need 3rd party, get ure ncb up and then go to full comp, or wait till ure 18 and then get full comp, its not to mcuh cheaper but its a little bit less anyways...and more companies will look at you

this is crap advice.

if you're 17, just got your license and think you're indestructable..... then you're probably 17..... and you're probably not (infallible).

dude, why dont you start out with a cheaper but equally fun car. like a silvia or an R31.....

zanda reads fane's mind again :)

this car isnt cheap to uphold, and mikey is finding this out now... :(

as zanda said, you need insurance, if someone hit me and they didnt have insurance or money, i would rip their ****in balls off...

i dont pretend to know everything because im only 21 and im still learning, but at 17 you should aim at a first car kind of level, (this doesnt mean it has to be a heap of shit, but prolly not aim around the 20k mark for you first car) and look at a car that you can get insurance for and build up your no claim bonus.

my first car was a ford falcon, yes it was slow, but it was comfy and nice to drive, and i learnt the road. now i have my skyline, i can afford insurance and im sitting pretty stable (touch wood :))

in the falcon i built up a 60% no claim bonus which got my insurance down to $996 a year insured for $20k with westfarmers.

what about an N/A 33 or a 32 if you want a newer car than a silvia or an r31...? :rofl:

if your are a proper driver you will only need third party...haha...what happens if the car catches on fire?

anyways i agree if you are 17 and you think that 2K is too much then you are not the rich kid 17yr old that can afford to drive this car at that age...if you want to lose all of your life working harder than ever to get enough money to maintain and fuel the car as well as insure it.then be my guest...but there are plenty of cars to learn to drive well in before stepping to a skyline and also before being able to afford it..or at least have a job that makes it easy to maintain the car

anyways i agree if you are 17 and you think that 2K is too much then you are not the rich kid 17yr old that can afford to drive this car at that age...if you want to lose all of your life working harder than ever to get enough money to maintain and fuel the car as well as insure it.then be my guest...but there are plenty of cars to learn to drive well in before stepping to a skyline and also before being able to afford it..or at least have a job that makes it easy to maintain the car

wise words from the old skool pimp... err i mean, Riaz knows what he's talking about :P he's from the industry

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...