Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys.i got a r33 fitted with the rb20e motor.what i want to know howstrong are the diff and sideshafts fitted to this model.are they as strong as the turbo skylines' diffs and sideshafts.how do i know if its a r200 diff.my vin plate says rc4.00 does that mean its a r200 diff.if i want to fit a turbo diff do i need the whole casing or jus the intenals.hope anyone can help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393575-r33-diff-and-driveshaft-strength/
Share on other sites

Don't know about a RB20DE R33, but i'm fairly sure the 25DE and DET diffs/driveshafts are the same?

Few people having trouble with gearboxes on 25DE+T's or high powered RB20DET's, but rarely hear of blown diffs or drive shafts unless it's in BIG power applications.....

Any R200 diff is as strong as any other in the basic aspects (CW&P, centre casting, output halfshafts). In the case of the 2L R33, it's unlikely that the std diff is LSD. And even if it was, VLSDs are pus anyway. Don't look at putting any other centre into your existing housing. Just buy a secondhand mechanical diff already in a housing when you can get one from someone.

I got an R32GTR rear end in my Stagea both for the mechanical LSD and because the 6 x 1 half shafts are thicker than the R33 ones (other advantages are aluminium carriers and twin pot brakes although you will have to change the shocks).

my diff does that.i even done the one wheel up test and itd very hard to turn but when one wheel is on a loose surface like sand and the other on hard surface the one on sand would spin with a light touch on the gas pedal.is that normal for a vlsd

oops sorry man.my diff acts like a lsd.i've jacked up my car n both wheels turn in the same direction.same said to jack up one wheel n if it hard to turn then its a lsd.i've done that test too n its hard to turn the wheel.do viscous lsd work when the wheels turn slow cause when one wheel is on a hard surface n the other on sand the one on sand starts to spin n no power goes to the other wheel

<br />My diff is a piece of shit, limited slip my f**ken ass.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

I've just been driving mine for the first time since putting the helical centre in it. As far as I'm concerned, the VLSD that was in it before was effectively open. I now have to learn to drive the car again, because everything it does is different!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
×
×
  • Create New...