Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmm.. well the skyline army grows!!

Managed to convince my mate to buy a Skyline, and after looking at crappy old magnas, lancers, etc which really were all pretty bland when he looked at this GTS4 he bought it! Its an RB25DE, but he wasn't really after the extra costs of a turbo. Had all the options, and well when you do the math basically the best featured car for the price really.

1994 R33 GTS4, with 10 stacker CD, manual, and the cleanest interiors i have ever seen! Factory floor mats were like new, and not one scratch on the interior at all.. truly immaculate. Definitely genuine 77,000km. Stock as an absolute rock, as it came in under the new scheme.

Now this is two mates who have bought skylines since i have - haha. My mate in Melb bought a R33 GTR end of last year after going in mine enough times. Guess they know what is the best car for the $$ out there these days :)

now I just got this other mate in melb, who was thinking of getting another car, and has almost being convinced to get a liner too :) although not sure whether he is going to sell his car now :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39373-the-skyline-army-grows/
Share on other sites

Ive got 2 people to buy 33 gtst's :)

Next on the list is a 97-98 GTR for me :) Not for awhile yet tho, and one of my mates will probably buy my gtst, cos i want it looked after, considering all the moolah and time ive spent on her!

Anyways, pred.. Hows dave going with your car?

Any word?

yeh. another to join the ranks of NA.

how many NA's are there in bris?

only ones i know of are John and I...

John is like in another league altogether now...

so ne one else?

I believe u can add genesis to that list aswell

My mate is on the goldcoast.. There would be a few around though, in fact there is a marone one up my road with a kit which i had a chat to recently. He is always driving around, 'nother bloody loud one for n/a too! :)

I reckon the non-turbo is a reasonable option, about $5k cheaper and things. Still a nice car, but only thing lacking is the power mainly. Looks the same after all.

Will be interested to see how my mates handles with the ATESSA GTS4 option. Stagea engine swap is also a possibility to give you a RB25DET 4WD -- but i doubt he will be in for that :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...