Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I read a thread from a few months ago about installing your GT-SSs, but I cannot find any info after the installation. Were they installed? If so, could you give me a link to what you think of them.

I just bought a D- Jetro with all the trimmings, now I am trying to decide if I want to go with GT-SS, 2510, or the 2530s.

I would like a quicker power band than stock, so I was thinking of going to a 9:1 with the GT-SS. I hate lag.

Thanks for any info you could give me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/
Share on other sites

To me when it comes down to who is the fastest in the 1/4, its who has the deepest pockets. My pockets are kind of shallow, so when I take a hit off of the "Go Fast Crack Pipe" a have to look at it a little differently. I want power for a street car, power that will be there without having to rev it to the moon.

1st thing is increase comp, that has and always will be the easiest way to increase power, of course you have to look at the problems of detonation, but if you are only boosting to 1.1-1.2 and using a higher octane fuel, with a good tune. I see no issue.

Second is get a turbo that suits your engine. The 2.6 is a fairly small engine, yes it can rev very high, but that induces other issues of longevity. I really cannot see me revving past 7500, ever. Any more than that you are running a risk of something letting go.

I know the 2530 has been a proven turbo for the RB26, but I think it might push too much volume for the application that I am think about, plus the from the limited info that I have been able to read about the GT-SS will spool a little faster, plus with the slight increase of compression it should be at full spool pretty early in the rpm band.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/#findComment-800632
Share on other sites

I have encountered more setbacks than I care to recount.

Starting with an ever-growing modlist, which in turn leads to buying the new parts, which in turn leads to unreliable sources, or unavailable parts.

I should have rods and pistons by mid-May, when the car is going in for the work...

This is dragging on way too long and it's frustrating the hell out of me :(

Sorry I can't show you any dyno sheets just yet :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/#findComment-801659
Share on other sites

I have encountered more setbacks than I care to recount.

Starting with an ever-growing modlist, which in turn leads to buying the new parts, which in turn leads to unreliable sources, or unavailable parts.

I should have rods and pistons by mid-May, when the car is going in for the work...

This is dragging on way too long and it's frustrating the hell out of me :P

Sorry I can't show you any dyno sheets just yet :)

Sorry to hear about your set backs.

I might just be the same boat as you here in a few months. If we start bailing water now, we just might make it:)

I hope to have mine up and running before the summer is over. I'll post my results for you guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/#findComment-802373
Share on other sites

I have encountered more setbacks than I care to recount.

Starting with an ever-growing modlist, which in turn leads to buying the new parts, which in turn leads to unreliable sources, or unavailable parts.

I should have rods and pistons by mid-May, when the car is going in for the work...

This is dragging on way too long and it's frustrating the hell out of me :D

Sorry I can't show you any dyno sheets just yet :rofl:

For anyone modifying a car (to *your* specs as opposed to what your workshop can get their hands on) - this behaviour is fairly normal. (sorry Merli) But I just wanted to point out to everyone the 'cons' of modifying your car.

One thing leads to another hey mate :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/#findComment-820710
Share on other sites

exactly... i think if you are building a specific engine it's a good idea to buy a second engine and build that up so that you can still drive your car. Then once the engine build is finished you can pull out your current working engine and fit the new one. Then you just sell your complete engine to get your money back on the initial purchase of the one you just built up!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/#findComment-820753
Share on other sites

For anyone modifying a car (to *your* specs as opposed to what your workshop can get their hands on) - this behaviour is fairly normal. (sorry Merli) But I just wanted to point out to everyone the 'cons' of modifying your car.

One thing leads to another hey mate :rofl:

No need to be sorry, you're absolutely right... But that doesn't make it any less frustrating!! :D

re: second engine, once I have all the parts ready to go and to give to the engine builder, it shouldn't take more than 2-3 weeks for them to do the rebuild. All they have to do is a full strip and rebuild from the ground up of an engine (but with all new goodies :)) so it shouldn't take too long. Builds only stretch on and on when you order parts and wait for them to come during the actual build.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/#findComment-820945
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Car goes in on Saturday for the build :)

And yes, GT-SS turbos are straight bolt-ons... I'm only building the engine for reliability for circuit racing, not to hold the power... Stock internals should be fine.

I should have results for you within the month :D:) :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/#findComment-899794
Share on other sites

Due to the nature of the automotive industry, and the backstabbing that goes on from workshop to workshop, I won't divulge that publically, in case I want to take my car to other workshops in the future to get some work done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/#findComment-899859
Share on other sites

So your not doing forgies now?

I'm doing everything shy of a stroker kit.

I was just saying that what I'm doing isn't necessary, and won't add any power... GT-SS turbos can be used on a stock engine just fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/#findComment-899860
Share on other sites

Your doing it because you want to run NOS right?

Yes that, and I want the reliability of forged internals for the circuit racing I will be doing...

I'm also a firm believer of "doing it right the first time" :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39391-merli-gt-ss/#findComment-899913
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...