Jump to content
SAU Community

New Tyres

TUFF_350
 Share

Recommended Posts

TUFF_350 Proficient

TUFF_350

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

just fitted a brand new set of Kumho KU31 225/40/19 fronts & 245 rears, got great pricing and shipping from Tempe so was very pleased!

I understand they need "running-in" for around the 1-200km (distance) mark, but does this effect tyre noise also?

They seem to be friggin noisey buggas, besides the fit/balance I also opted for alignment etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394192-new-tyres/
Share on other sites
Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

V35s have crap sound insulation IMHO - I have always found tyres to be noisier than I would like - espeically since I buy aggressive/high performance tread styles, which tend to have blocky shoulders - it is the big blocky tyre shoulders that make for a noisy tyre I find.

Bad news is the noise will not get better for you .....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394192-new-tyres/#findComment-6267681
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
Howaitonaito Mentor

Howaitonaito

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bring up an old thread but looking for new front tyres for a V-sedan.

At the moment I have $88 carbon series 235/40R18s on the front (18x8s, no stretch) and the same on the rear (18x9/9.5, little bit of stretch).

The rear tyres I got off a commodore which still had some tread but they are almost bald and want to put the fronts on the back and get new, better brand ones on the front that give me a bit of stretch to match the rear.

Looking at around $200/250 region a tyre.

Had khumos and Bridgestone before and liked them. Had good year and never again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394192-new-tyres/#findComment-6326361
Share on other sites
Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
Posted (edited)

try (rotalla?) f-107's in 18's .... theyre a quiet tyre with decent grip. i had them on a previous set of 19's and liked them.

as long as the tyres have a wear rating over 300 theyll last a long time. if theyre rated at 180, grip will be great but youll be replacing them within 6 months max

my current front tyres - carbon series CS88's - sound like and have a noise level similar to a 4x4 with knobbly tyres. theyre horrible

Edited by Deep Dish V35
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394192-new-tyres/#findComment-6328571
Share on other sites
Howaitonaito Mentor

Howaitonaito

Posted
Posted

Yeah man I did. I only put the carbon ones on the front because I got given some old 235 /40s that had some tread left so I could fry them and not worry, but they're almost bald so I'm putting new fronts on and moving the Chinese ones to the rear

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394192-new-tyres/#findComment-6330191
Share on other sites
n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

i have absolutely no hesitation in using chinese stuff. the last set lasted 5 years / 50,000 km with not one problem. a tyre is not worth more than $100 to me.

A lot of ppl on this forum will probably make you eat your words but each to their own. yes the cheaper tires last longer as they have a harder compound which effectively means less grip, but yes they will last u ages if u drive sensibly, but in an emergency or in the wet I wouldn't bet my life on it. The higher end tires have a softer compound, more grip and wear quicker.

Ever play Gran Turismo and wonder why they grade tires hard, medium, soft and the soft racing tires are always the most expensive?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394192-new-tyres/#findComment-6333885
Share on other sites
Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
Posted (edited)

A lot of ppl on this forum will probably make you eat your words but each to their own. yes the cheaper tires last longer as they have a harder compound which effectively means less grip, but yes they will last u ages if u drive sensibly, but in an emergency or in the wet I wouldn't bet my life on it. The higher end tires have a softer compound, more grip and wear quicker.

Ever play Gran Turismo and wonder why they grade tires hard, medium, soft and the soft racing tires are always the most expensive?

after decades of owning name brand tyres, and in one year going thru 4 sets.... never again will i waste my money. i dont drive in a manner that makes the difference in grip even slightly noticeable, all i care about is whether they look good stretched over a rim thats too wide for them ;)

plus, its not a real skyline anyway :P

Edited by Deep Dish V35
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394192-new-tyres/#findComment-6333922
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
MikeLo Explorer

MikeLo

Posted
Posted

Old post but I just went from Kumho to Continental ContiSport 5P's for the rears on my 370 GT, and oh my god the difference is massive.... Traction control barely has to kick in any more when you give it the beans from a standing start, and you can feel the increased grip in the corners. Very very pleased, bank balance is alot poorer... $380 each from St George...

Now I'm looking at some new fronts, St George have some Hancook designed carbon series for the fronts that are a hard compound tire for $100 a piece... But after my experience with the rears i'm tempted to up the anti a little this time but the bank balance is pinching hard.

Has anyone used the carbon series tires?

I have just worn through a pair of Falkens in a year and $30k, that were about $200 each and pretty useless, huge road noise too, not too sure I want to strecth up to $300 for Conti's on the front... Also some crazy ass hi tech looking Nitto's for $230... Anyone chime in with some advice...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394192-new-tyres/#findComment-6941164
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      Short shifter r34

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Diff oil

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • GTSBoy
      Short shifter r34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Diff oil

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...