Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help me please. I have a R33 and for a while i was having trouble with it spluttering and idleing bad mainly after putting it under load. So i changed the coil packs that made no difference so i decided to change the fuel filter. When i took the filter off i tipped the fuel out and it was filthy and brown. So i put a bottle on the line and turned the reds on to see what it was like coming from the tank and it was clean. After changing the fuel filter and cleaning the AFM the car ran fine untill today. I boosted it up it made a pop when i backed off it started to splutter and idle bad when trying to drive it it just wanted to come on to boost and kept fluttering ( i have a bov atmosphere/plumbback) i pulled over to check it then everything went back to normal its now driving fine again and boosting smoothly.

The car is pretty much stock apart from exhaust, FMIC and BOV

Any ideas???

Hmmm... When you said pop that definately sounded like a intercooler hose coming off. Maybe you popped another vacuum hose somewhere. Do you hear a whistling or sucking?

Black smoke when it happened?

Car is perfectly fine now?

i checked all the vacume lines and intercooler pipes and double checked they were tight everything was fine.

There was no sucking or whistling noises or anything and it did blow a heap of black smoke once before when i was trying to keep the revs up and i could smell petrol. This was before i did the coil packs and fuel filter.

Its not fine i thought it was untill yesterday. it sometimes hunts for idle and ive noticed the thing that brings it on is when its been bought under light boost after the turbo flutters the car wants to stall then hunts a bit it dosnt do it all the time. Could it be the BOV?

Cheers

if the bov is venting to atmosphere thats more than likely your problem, the way they work means that the car is getting unmetered air (air not measured by the afm) and therefore idles and runs poorly, needs a retune to fix it. if it plumbs back then you have a vacuum leak somewhere

Best bet to find such a crack would be to soap the piping or hosing to see a leak. Do you run a tee or boost cont with a aftermarket gauge? If so u should notice the pai dropping once u reach max psi.

Other option could be fuel pump shat itself, if it smells like fuel afterward

Best bet to find such a crack would be to soap the piping or hosing to see a leak. Do you run a tee or boost cont with a aftermarket gauge? If so u should notice the pai dropping once u reach max psi.

Other option could be fuel pump shat itself, if it smells like fuel afterward

This wert work. Under vacuum you aren't going to get bubbles. He needs to pressurise the intake then soak the stuff.

Failing fuel pump will make the car hard to start and will cause it to pop on boost and potentially even in low medium load without boost.

Edited by SargeRX8

This wert work. Under vacuum you aren't going to get bubbles. He needs to pressurise the intake then soak the stuff.

Failing fuel pump will make the car hard to start and will cause it to pop on boost and potentially even in low medium load without boost.

Vacuum in the manifold. the pipes have a small amount of pressure in them

Lastnight I took the BOV of and replaced it with the gfb stealth as i noticed the one that was on it was open 100% on both sides. I have the gfb one running 100% plumback.

Anyways took the car for a drive gave it heaps and it drove fine held boost and did everything it should.

Coming home from work this arvo about half hour into the drive just cruising didnt boost it up it started to splutter.

it also feels like the car sometimes cuts out completly then comes back to life splutering and carrying on.

the car stalled i fired it up it then drove normal for the last 5min of the trip home

What was the filter on the pump like ?

Have u drained fuel to check quality of it ?

Also check all fuel lines make sure there all good not split or leaking or sucking water

What is the timing set at ?

The filter on the pump was a little dirty it was light brown. i havnt drained the fuel but when i had the filter off i pumped some into a bottle and it was clean.

ok thanks ill go over all the fuel lines.

not to sure about the timming as far as i know its never been touched

The filter on the pump was a little dirty it was light brown. i havnt drained the fuel but when i had the filter off i pumped some into a bottle and it was clean.

ok thanks ill go over all the fuel lines.

not to sure about the timming as far as i know its never been touched

The only reason I say check timing is that if ur cad I faulty ur timing may possibly be off if u get the chance hook up to a consult

Hey mate,

I remember reading somewhere recently that BOVs venting to atmosphere might cause stalling issues for skylines. I can't find the exact site where I read it, but here are some links for extra info on how others have solved it. Hope it helps!

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech/9424-bov-causing-stalling.html

http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/bovfaq.html

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101975

http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals/FG-ADM-R33.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you want to do a single throttle body conversion easily, you won't need to pull anything apart. Take the linkage from your throttle off the linkage controlling the ITBs. Now open the ITBs wide open, and lock the linkages in said position. Now add a single throttle body onto the front of your inlet plenum. No it's not ideal for the last nth of a kw, but it'll be a lot better than what you're already trying to do...   PS, ITBs can be so damn hard to tune from, because roughly 20% movement in a throttle body equates to a change in roughly 80% of its flow (Hence power). When you add up the flow limitations of those small throttle bodys, it is a LOT higher than that of a single large throttle. Hence, TPS is very very sensitive with them, and you do a LOT of work with sensor fusion, and some Maths behind the scenes to make those blends nice, and be smooth.
    • Yep, when Haltech purchased Adaptronic, and all of the Adaptronic staff, including Andy went with it, it took Haltech to the next level. Haltech wanted Adaptronic as they wanted things like Andy's fuel models, and some other IP, AND they wanted Andy too as he is brilliant! Andy has spoken about the incompatibilities between the old 1500 stuff vs Nexxus, and it totally makes sense. It's not JUST software that is different, there is huge changes in the underlying hardware too. It's why Haltech has had soooo many changes in the last couple of years, in terms of Hardware, and Software, and why it has become so damn Amazing. Why do you think guys like Rob Dahm with his quad rotor, went from running Adaptronic's to running Haltechs? Andy. Pretty much, Haltech these days, is Adaptronic, but with more funds behind it, and more staff, and hence Andy's visions, and visions of other people that he helps shape their great visions, into amazing new products. All the new Nexxus gear, whole new software for it, new and better dashboards, the apps that will run on headunits and NOT be slow to respond! I understand people being burnt in the past, but if you're ragging on a company, about products and issues from many years ago, it's more a reflection on yourself, not looking or keeping up with new stuff. In which case, those people should be going back to PowerFC and Nistunes as the ECU's to rave on about...
    • Right, but I thought the problem has been for a while now that even if you know manifold pressure + throttle position you still have non-linearity and aliasing issues vs actual engine load? One way I can see things simplifying is going DBW, then all air going into the engine is represented by the throttle position. As opposed to a random bimetallic strip vaguely linked to engine temperature opening and closing a shutter or some random power steering air valve suddenly allowing a bunch of bypass air. But the same throttle position/RPM at ~atmospheric MAP in different gears is not guaranteed to be same engine load? Honestly, ITBs are of such dubious value IMO. I don't know why these things are hyped up so much. The main benefit as far as I can tell is you reduce the likelihood of cross-cylinder EGR scavenging with significant cam overlap at idle. I would absolutely run speed density and be done with it if not for this fairly esoteric control problem.
    • Hah dont worry, my adult brain has this conversation every single day. Dont waste your money, invest more of it into shares, pay down the mortgage. Then the bedtime insta doom scrolling begins and after being bombarded with gtr's my mind is set: im definitely getting one! I have the current model mx5 as the weekender, but i just miss my boost and literally like your username, the sututu's that come with it. I remember with my 2nd supra, as it had twins and vvti, they used to spool real early, like 1,500rpm so you could just be a spooly boy all day long. Some people say they get over it after a while, not me tho. 
    • If you need to refinance your mortgage and reset the loan terms back to 30 years and cash out on your equity for "investment" purposes *cough* car parts, I can help 😊
×
×
  • Create New...