Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help me please. I have a R33 and for a while i was having trouble with it spluttering and idleing bad mainly after putting it under load. So i changed the coil packs that made no difference so i decided to change the fuel filter. When i took the filter off i tipped the fuel out and it was filthy and brown. So i put a bottle on the line and turned the reds on to see what it was like coming from the tank and it was clean. After changing the fuel filter and cleaning the AFM the car ran fine untill today. I boosted it up it made a pop when i backed off it started to splutter and idle bad when trying to drive it it just wanted to come on to boost and kept fluttering ( i have a bov atmosphere/plumbback) i pulled over to check it then everything went back to normal its now driving fine again and boosting smoothly.

The car is pretty much stock apart from exhaust, FMIC and BOV

Any ideas???

Hmmm... When you said pop that definately sounded like a intercooler hose coming off. Maybe you popped another vacuum hose somewhere. Do you hear a whistling or sucking?

Black smoke when it happened?

Car is perfectly fine now?

i checked all the vacume lines and intercooler pipes and double checked they were tight everything was fine.

There was no sucking or whistling noises or anything and it did blow a heap of black smoke once before when i was trying to keep the revs up and i could smell petrol. This was before i did the coil packs and fuel filter.

Its not fine i thought it was untill yesterday. it sometimes hunts for idle and ive noticed the thing that brings it on is when its been bought under light boost after the turbo flutters the car wants to stall then hunts a bit it dosnt do it all the time. Could it be the BOV?

Cheers

if the bov is venting to atmosphere thats more than likely your problem, the way they work means that the car is getting unmetered air (air not measured by the afm) and therefore idles and runs poorly, needs a retune to fix it. if it plumbs back then you have a vacuum leak somewhere

Best bet to find such a crack would be to soap the piping or hosing to see a leak. Do you run a tee or boost cont with a aftermarket gauge? If so u should notice the pai dropping once u reach max psi.

Other option could be fuel pump shat itself, if it smells like fuel afterward

Best bet to find such a crack would be to soap the piping or hosing to see a leak. Do you run a tee or boost cont with a aftermarket gauge? If so u should notice the pai dropping once u reach max psi.

Other option could be fuel pump shat itself, if it smells like fuel afterward

This wert work. Under vacuum you aren't going to get bubbles. He needs to pressurise the intake then soak the stuff.

Failing fuel pump will make the car hard to start and will cause it to pop on boost and potentially even in low medium load without boost.

Edited by SargeRX8

This wert work. Under vacuum you aren't going to get bubbles. He needs to pressurise the intake then soak the stuff.

Failing fuel pump will make the car hard to start and will cause it to pop on boost and potentially even in low medium load without boost.

Vacuum in the manifold. the pipes have a small amount of pressure in them

Lastnight I took the BOV of and replaced it with the gfb stealth as i noticed the one that was on it was open 100% on both sides. I have the gfb one running 100% plumback.

Anyways took the car for a drive gave it heaps and it drove fine held boost and did everything it should.

Coming home from work this arvo about half hour into the drive just cruising didnt boost it up it started to splutter.

it also feels like the car sometimes cuts out completly then comes back to life splutering and carrying on.

the car stalled i fired it up it then drove normal for the last 5min of the trip home

What was the filter on the pump like ?

Have u drained fuel to check quality of it ?

Also check all fuel lines make sure there all good not split or leaking or sucking water

What is the timing set at ?

The filter on the pump was a little dirty it was light brown. i havnt drained the fuel but when i had the filter off i pumped some into a bottle and it was clean.

ok thanks ill go over all the fuel lines.

not to sure about the timming as far as i know its never been touched

The filter on the pump was a little dirty it was light brown. i havnt drained the fuel but when i had the filter off i pumped some into a bottle and it was clean.

ok thanks ill go over all the fuel lines.

not to sure about the timming as far as i know its never been touched

The only reason I say check timing is that if ur cad I faulty ur timing may possibly be off if u get the chance hook up to a consult

Hey mate,

I remember reading somewhere recently that BOVs venting to atmosphere might cause stalling issues for skylines. I can't find the exact site where I read it, but here are some links for extra info on how others have solved it. Hope it helps!

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech/9424-bov-causing-stalling.html

http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/bovfaq.html

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101975

http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals/FG-ADM-R33.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...