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Ffs Rb30Det Issues!

Gts4RB30

By Gts4RB30,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Gts4RB30 Collaborator

Gts4RB30

Posted
Posted

GOD SO OVER THE DO THIS DO THAT AND THE CONSTANT DISAGREEMENT OVER RB30DET BETWEEN WORK SHOPS. Look i have fitted the nitto pump to this thing and fitted the collar now i have gone to fit the timing gear and found it pretrudes more because of the collar than the rb20 one next to it. secondly what is the safest revs that a fully ballanced stock ballancer can rev to that has been ballanced with the crank and flywheel.??? please no answers seem to come up about this use the hot word search????

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Gts4RB30 Collaborator

Gts4RB30

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yeah all the machining got done like it's meant to be but it's only sticking out like 2 to 3 mm if that would possibly sit inside of the timing gear grove but it's fully on no doubt about that i double checked it twice, and it's already in the engine torqued down with oil pump on and adapter plate on don't really want to go ripping all that off will upload pics asap. have done alot of research on this came up with nothing and all the others have been flush so like wtf?? did nitto make it too long i wonder???

Gts4RB30 Collaborator

Gts4RB30

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found the issue

FRIGGIN MACHINIST IS SHIT. Didn't grub screw it and didn't slide the collar on properly and now is coming off. f**k SAKE taking it back going to have a fit now that i have lost all those gaskets and tell them i want it redone as it wasn't done properly in the first place and f**king grub screwed this time and i'm not f**king paying for it!

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Is the stock balancer brand new? I wouldn't be running a second hand one.. and I agree with 7k max.

As for the collar issue, that is the reason I searched around for a quality machinist that would weld the snout up and machine back to suit the gears, some people don't like that idea but it works for us.

Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

found the issue

FRIGGIN MACHINIST IS SHIT. Didn't grub screw it and didn't slide the collar on properly and now is coming off. f**k SAKE taking it back going to have a fit now that i have lost all those gaskets and tell them i want it redone as it wasn't done properly in the first place and f**king grub screwed this time and i'm not f**king paying for it!

How is it coming off? I could imagine he might not have machined the old pump drive back enough and it protrudes more than it should but unless your balancer is loose it shouldn't slide off.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

The collar shouldnt be loose even without grubscrews. It is supposed to have a 0.002" - 0.003" interference fit. Collar is heated up and then tapped on with a drift soft enough not to damage it and then let it shrink on. Once done then you drill, tap and grubscrew it as a secondary lock.

The collar should butt hard upto the front face of the main journal and stop just before the recessed groove that leads to the snout with key way slots.

If your collar is loose, then either the crankshaft grinder stuffed up or the machine shop specified the wrong size when they mic'd up the ID of the collar.

Gts4RB30 Collaborator

Gts4RB30

Posted
  • Author
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How is it coming off? I could imagine he might not have machined the old pump drive back enough and it protrudes more than it should but unless your balancer is loose it shouldn't slide off.

balancer is original one and no the balancer isn't coming off the collar is i checked it when i put it on it was flush now it's not!

as below will highly indicate. living on the sunshine coast there is NO trustworthy machinists around here let alone most mechanics.

post-88185-0-99894500-1331348100_thumb.jpg

post-88185-0-35353900-1331348170_thumb.jpg

post-88185-0-52809100-1331348197_thumb.jpg

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted (edited)

where abouts are u in oz ?

sunshine coast

agreed with the rest, no way a collar should move that easily once fitted. if you can find a decent shop welding the crank and machining it back is the best option

Edited by JonnoHR31
Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

agreed with the rest, no way a collar should move that easily once fitted. if you can find a decent shop welding the crank and machining it back is the best option

I don't think it's sliding off, looking at the photo's i think the radius on the crank is too big and the chamfer on the collar too small. I think they pressed it on and it wedged against the bottom of the raduis not letting it butt up against the shoulder where it should be.

IF they could get that collar off in good condition it could be modififed and refitted properly with grubscrews.

I think welding should be avoided because it puts stress into the metal and it will most likely require straightening of the balancer section of the crank.

Gts4RB30 Collaborator

Gts4RB30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah well instead of machining it to .002" or .003" he machined it to .008" to prevent having to use the grub screws and reckons it won't move, you can get it off but it will be a pain and what ever damages are caused this f**ker is paying for it period. never going to use sunshine coast machinists again. i agree with the don't weld it part seen it f**k up cranks before on 1hz and 1hdt landcruiser engines which i what i work on but this is un acceptable.

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