Upgrading My Turbo, Chasing Your Thoughts

[Slattery Gts-t]

Ok as the title states im upgrading my turbo as my factory one is giving up, before i go and spend 6k id like your opinions

Now ill start with the cars current mods: Full 3" exhaust (gutted cat), Front Mount Intercooler, Walbro 255LPH fuel pump, K&N Pod, Yellow Jackets coil packs, Brand New Exedy Heavy duty clutch

Im Looking at the GTX3076R turbo kit from Kudos? it will be street driven and i want to get into doing a bit of track work, I know it will be a bit laggy for the street but i can live with that, i want to pick a turbo that i can use after i get the bottom end forged and want more power. At the moment until i get it forged and upgrade my clutch im chasing around 250rwkw

Along with the turbo i also plan on getting a top feed fuel rail kit with 650cc injectors and a Haltech platinum pro ecu

So what are your thoughts? have i missed anything?

[DVS JEZ]

Do it. Good turbo if ur going to upgrade to a forged motor.

But

U shouldnt want to rebuild a motor until it needs to be rebuilt. So a gtx3071 or normal 3076 will be plenty. And u will always be able to sell the turbo for good money when u want to go bigger

[Dobz]

Go for it, as DVS JEZ said a normal GT3076 will be plenty.

[Slattery Gts-t]

Yeah true!

I do have a blown engine in my shed that i plan to slowly build up so i wanted to buy a turbo that can give me the power im chasing now and then more when its built

[Slattery Gts-t]

Its a GTX iv read that they spool a little bit earlier than a GT, and that they make more power at high psi (22+ PSI) compared to the GT

[wolverine]

My GT3076 spooled up faster and made more power than a GTX3071 on 98ron.

Until more Australian results come through I would rather let others be test pilots.

[AngryRB]

i should have results from mine in a month or so, was driving around easy without a tune and the sound of it is amazing, it whistles like a trucks turbo,been keeping up with traffic even off boost

Edited March 11, 2012 by SliverS2

[Slattery Gts-t]

SilverS2 what ecu are you using?

[AngryRB]

SilverS2 what ecu are you using?

using a power FC , and i have an AVCR so hope that will bring on the boost early as possible

[R31Nismoid]

Its a GTX iv read that they spool a little bit earlier than a GT, and that they make more power at high psi (22+ PSI) compared to the GT

You won't be running 22psi+ in a basic club level track car. Just asking for trouble as heat will be your enemy.

Keep the boost sane, keep the tune good - motor will last potentially years whilst you learn to actually drive it, and set the car up.

So hence just get a GT3076, and then spend on handling/brakes/entry fees/rubber/fuel/servicing for trackdays. Far better use of your money.

[Slattery Gts-t]

Iv actually got a bit of a head start as far as handling is concerned the car has Tein coilovers all round and front and rear strut braces, also 265's on the rear to help with traction, but all this doesnt help if i cant handle it so that will be my key focus

So with a good tune at the 250rwkw mark the engine should potentially last years? providing i dont flog the guts out of it all the time

[petero'nell]

3076 is a good turbo for the 300rwkws mark. 250rwkws If that is your goal check out hypergear's ss1pu turbo, that would be the most responsive turbo for that sorta of power and pretty much bolton. Far as engine concern as long as its been tuned well then it should have no issues, how ever some of the old electrical parts might not like the extra boost as I had to replace all coil packs and CAS controller on mine.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

y'all know what i'm a gonna say... but i'm a gonna say it anyway...

HKS 2835 Pro S

boom

[R31Nismoid]

Iv actually got a bit of a head start as far as handling is concerned the car has Tein coilovers all round and front and rear strut braces, also 265's on the rear to help with traction, but all this doesnt help if i cant handle it so that will be my key focus

So with a good tune at the 250rwkw mark the engine should potentially last years? providing i dont flog the guts out of it all the time

Well most cars have coil overs already.

I'm talking geometry like adj arms for caster/camber, oil coolers, upgrades radiators, brakes

You'll easily spend 3-4k just in that department alone. Pads & rotors will be $1000

You can then even look at getting lighter rims for unsprung weight reduction etc. Sooooooo many areas to attend to really before you need to go rebuilding a big motor.

No reason a motor won't last for many years if you keep the boost/tune/servicing in good order. So get a 3076, run say 14-15psi - should last a long time @ 250rwkw. The 3076 is probably a bit big for only 250rwkw, but the fact you'll be using low boost levels, less heat, wont come on like a lightswitch etc etc. Whilst you are learning to drive, is a pretty good idea.

[gotRICE?]

. Pads & rotors will be $1000

Jesus Christ where do you get your pads and rotors from

Dont think about the lag thing. Any turbo is laggy compared to a stocker lol. A normal GT3076 is hardly laggy on a 25. Mine sees 17psi in the 3300-3400 area most of the time. Its good

[AngryRB]

The RB25 is a revy motor by nature, why would you want to try and make it a responsive low down car?

better off complementing the natural nature of the motor which a turbo comming onto full boost at 3500-4000rpm is the ticket, if you want low down power then you need a falcon or a vl turbo,

so in this case why not get a gtx3076 so later when/if the motor blows you can rebuild for 350kw, from all the discussion its as if the gtx for only $200 more is a bad thing, noone with a good setup has proved that its slower spooling than a 3076 , and if so not by much. $200 is worth a better turbo.

[Dale FZ1]

I'm talking geometry like adj arms for caster/camber, oil coolers, upgrades radiators, brakes

Pads & rotors will be $1000

You can then even look at getting lighter rims for unsprung weight reduction etc.

The 3076 is probably a bit big for only 250rwkw, but the fact you'll be using low boost levels, less heat, wont come on like a lightswitch etc etc. Whilst you are learning to drive, is a pretty good idea.

Full agreement here. There is often a big lack of understanding of what it takes to get accustomed to track driving, setting up the car for that duty, and then actually getting a turn of speed with reliability.

In short, chassis setup is the key. Properly setup suspension is not easy to achieve unless either you know what you're doing, or are prepared o pay for someone to do it - on top of the actual hardware required. Won't matter much whatever power the thing makes if it won't put it to the ground, or won't turn. Weight is not your friend. Even 50kg reduction helps immensely, and reduces the amount of power you need to target from the engine as motive force. Also reduces the load on the tyres and helps braking and change of direction.

250rwkW is no weakling, and at that point you REALLY need to understand what it takes to make it reliably. Effective cooling - engine coolant, oil, and even power steering and brakes can take time and effort and $$ to get right.

The debate over GT or GTX series won't matter too much, you have a choice of 3 readily available units that will cover your immediate needs, and future plans for getting more straight line speed. Give more serious consideration to a fabricated manifold and EW setup, partly for effective boost control but maybe more importantly to give easiest access to the hardware for checking over everything and the inevitable maintenance you need between events.

Listen to Ash's comments, he is on the mark.

[R31Nismoid]

Jesus Christ where do you get your pads and rotors from

Dont think about the lag thing. Any turbo is laggy compared to a stocker lol. A normal GT3076 is hardly laggy on a 25. Mine sees 17psi in the 3300-3400 area most of the time. Its good

Well I'm talking labour & fluid (associated things etc).

[Lithium]

Remember guys, he said he wants 250kw to start with - with the view that he will eventually rebuild the motor and squeeze more out of it in future.

It seems to me that he's in exactly the same position as I was a few years ago - at which point I wanted to start with ~240kw (Dyno Dynamics style) and would shoot for 270-300kw (DD style) when I had rebuilt the motor later on.

After a bit of pissing around and learning a bit from my own tuning exploits I ended up with an internally gated .82a/r GT3076R and went straight for 270-280ishkw (DD style) without opening the RB25. I don't see any point shooting for as low as 250kw with a stock RB25, to be honest. I did ~100,000km with near twice the stock power of mine and the motor still hasn't given me a problem.

I reckon one of the best quality (without spending absolute top dollar, of course) possible 250-300kw setups for an RB25 would be a Forced Performance GT3076HTA on a 6boost manifold.

[Slattery Gts-t]

Thanks for all your replys! seems like the right turbo for my goals

But, the bank which first up approved my loan has now decided to decline at this point in time so this plan has now been set back for a few months until i get settled into my new job,

Ill be still going ahead with it just not as soon as id hope.

To add to it last night i changed the dying factory turbo for my highflowed turbo which i had sitting around (was trying to keep it stock until i had the engine managment side of things sorted) and about half an hour ago i went for a drive, boosted to 10psi and clunk the exhaust wheel went out through the exhaust!