Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A turbo go bang as as Denton R33 put it, after constant abuse by lifting off full throttle at full boost often and overboosting. Both ways will vary between turbos in how long or when it will make the turbo go bang. It want happen because yours makes a flutter sound which normal and will be heard better when you remove the stock airbox and filter set up. Adding a front mount will change the sound in terms of duration, frequeancy and volume, but no the fact it happens or not.

My brother had a stock black top rb20 in his 31 4 door and a APEX GT Spec front mount. It had the most awsome and loud flutter. He ran 14psi with the stock ceramic turbo and never hurt it.

My 32 has a blitz BOV and because of the spring tension being higher than a stock silver top blow off valve, it doesn't open unless there is a substantial pressure increase caused by a sudden lift off under high boost. Which is when you won't it to go PERCHEW not flutter.

If you drive around normally and change gears during the spool up phase and not on boost, it makes a nice tight flutter unlike my brothers one which was loud, long and slow sounding.

A weak setting in any BOV will cause the BOV to open under moderate pressure levels giving you a single PERCHEW not the flutter maybe before you are on boost. No good for spooling up which will make the car feel laggy.

just set up your bov fairly tight so it only opens when your backing off over say 8psi, then you get the flutter when your taking it easy and the benefits of the bov when hard at it.

to change the sound just back of the throttle at different speeds, too easy

Keep it the way it is.

They come plumb-back for a reason  :rofl:

Your car will probably stall and play up if you remove the bov.

Well last night I did what sky-rkt said and took off the bov and just placed an alluminium cut out over the hole and then put the bov back over the top and screwed it all back together, and now... It flutters! : ) It hasn't effected the way the car drives at all! Still boosts the same, revs the same! everythings the same - just a nice flutter now - that's all!

Cheers

it'll be slower on the gear changes as the pressure aint going out where its meant too = hinderance in performance

Yeh maybe so - but it's not that bad that I can even feel the difference - still pulls the same through the gear changes, maybe cause it's not boosted there isn't that much pressure to get out? I dunno feels the same to me

do you think it would make a diff if you cover up half or more of the hole? it would couse a bit more back pressure yet still make use of the bov???

I reckon you'll get a bit of both! but I cant imagine the flutter being all that loud?

Only one way to find out I guess..

i have dabbled in this area a little bit... how to get the 'sickest cooler dose'. There is a constant debate as to whether removing all bovs will damage/reduce the life of your turbo... but basically its up to the owner whether they think its wise or not...

Anyway, on all of my cars that were turbo charged, it became obvious to me the piping/cooler size/turbo/air filter would depend on the sound of the 'flutter'.

Decent sized cooler piping, aftermarket fmic and a pod filter will amplify the sound.... but the ONE mod to me that made the sound very loud, was removing the standard plastic piping from the turbo to the airfilter/pod to a steel pipe...

I usually have bovs on my car, but they are tightened up to the sh1thouse. So 10psi and under it will flutter, and then when you release the throttle on full boost, it will flutter and bov simultaneously... sounds great =)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...