Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Send me some more photos around the catch can area.

Take a photo and mark it with ms paint where you want the intercooler pipe to go.

From that photo I'm pretty sure I can do something with it.

Might loose a big of washer bottle volume but nothing that will be too bad

[email protected]

Thanks Brad, email sent.

Didn't get a lot done today, but the injectors are done and fit perfectly, no issue there at all. I had been a bit concerned about the amount of movement in them just sitting in the rail, so I called my mechanic and asked for his advice, and he said if I can feel the drag of the o-ring then it's fine. So I put them all in the rail and bolted them up to the runners and bam, they fit perfectly.

IMG_0179.jpg

IMG_0178.jpg

I still need to change the plugs on the loom, but after attempting to install the new pins without the proper crimping tool I've decided I had best wait until I do have the proper tool ermm.gif Otherwise I'm now just waiting for my Speedflow fittings and hose to arrive so I can plumb up the rail, then I'm ready to bolt the plenum on. Fuel filter has been changed, I've cleaned up the runners a bit, so most of it is done now. May be able to get it on this weekend, we'll see.

Lol.

Just while I think of it, does anyone have any easy ways of degreasing in and around my engine? Ideally I would rip the engine out and clean it all up really well, but I haven't the time. I've tried using a rag and some degreaser, but there's so much in the way, I can't really get in anywhere. It's covered in shit though, there's a decent layer of dirt, sludge and grease built up all over the place, looks terrible confused.gif

speak with brad further.

he does some great stuff

About the catch can? Yes, I will. If I won't be able to get this one to fit cheaply then I'll try to sell it and get Brad to make me another one. Hopefully he can come up with something to make this one work though, saves me having to advertise it and try to sell it.

Speaking of trying to sell stuff, anyone wanna buy some Power Enterprise 660cc drop in injectors for an RB25DET Neo? :P

Lol.

Just while I think of it, does anyone have any easy ways of degreasing in and around my engine? Ideally I would rip the engine out and clean it all up really well, but I haven't the time. I've tried using a rag and some degreaser, but there's so much in the way, I can't really get in anywhere. It's covered in shit though, there's a decent layer of dirt, sludge and grease built up all over the place, looks terrible confused.gif

hot hot soapy soapy... clothes detergent is quite good... get in there with a toothbrush

soak in degreaser, some decent stuff gurney off, preferably hot water gurney...

truck washing places do engine bay steam cleans...

thats all Ive got...

awesome build mate! similar to what i did

except i de+t at the beginning (for 1.5years until ringland on piston 6 said see ya later) and now its running a complete DET with forge bottom end.

there was a member who sold the dash 8 or dash 10 fittings for the rocker cover, that you remove the old ones and pop the new one in. he isn't making these anymore tho, which is a shame as they were perfect!

where did you get yours from?

Are these the style you got man? If so, pain in the ass to fit? I wish i had done them before Craved worked his magic and powdercoated the covers....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320871968688?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

If they are the right ones i should grab them and have them ready to go :thumbsup:

Hey Ive got a couple of them at home for rb25 cam covers unused...

I got em and then decided to go rb26 covers...

rb26 covers have a slightly larger hole for the cam breathers...

I do need to sell em if anyones interested....

hot hot soapy soapy... clothes detergent is quite good... get in there with a toothbrush

soak in degreaser, some decent stuff gurney off, preferably hot water gurney...

truck washing places do engine bay steam cleans...

thats all Ive got...

Thanks mate, I'll give that a go.

Does anyone know where I can get these pin crimpers from? I've tried Jaycar, Dick Smiths, Tool Mart, various automotive stores, Covs, etc. I thought Jaycar would have but they didn't have a clue what I was showing them. They suggested just bending them over with a pair of pliers, but I'd rather not have my injectors cut out at 6000rpm because of a dodgy crimp. Would rather not solder either, I want to do it properly, just can't find these fkn crimpers.

when I changed my injector plugs to fit my sards I was able to disassemble the plugs and use the same metal crimped on plugs in the new plug plastics...

no crimping, soldering or wire joining stuff at all, just some plug assemble with factory metal bits in new plugs

Im going to be installing new siemens injectors that Ive got sitting there for my E85 setup and have again new plugs for them, I'll def attempt the same thing with these as its heaps easier that playing with wires and crimps etc...

Yes I tried to do that yesterday, but the rubber insulators that sit on the wire inside the end of the plug are all shagged out on the stock wires so I want to replace those. To do that I need to take the pin off the wire.

I just stretched the rubber insulators over the wire plug thing...

I think I even have a set of spare metal crimp things and rubber insulators from the sard plugs leftover, I just refitted the factory stuff..

I'll have to try this on the siemens injectors I have, I dont want to have to play with wires if I can help it...

It's very easy if I can get a hold of the proper crimper, I'm not worried about doing it if I can do it properly. If I can't get a hold of the crimpers and do it myself then I'll take the plugs and loom to an auto sparky or injector specialist. Would prefer to do it myself though.

God dammit! Spoke to my auto sparky mate just now and he said if I had asked him yesterday then he could have borrowed a pair of the crimpers because he has them on site, but he's back in town now angry.gif

God dammit! Spoke to my auto sparky mate just now and he said if I had asked him yesterday then he could have borrowed a pair of the crimpers because he has them on site, but he's back in town now angry.gif

When you get a hold of the tool, post up a pic so we can see what it is just out of interest :cheers:

When you get a hold of the tool, post up a pic so we can see what it is just out of interest :cheers:

They are open barrel crimpers, they look like this:

Connector_Crimp_Terminal_Pliers_for_JST_Molex.jpg

Can't believe nobody sells these damn things seeing as open barrel connectors aren't exactly rare glare.gif I may have just sourced a set though, so going to go check it out.

In other news, how good is that feeling you get when you are waiting for days for a parcel to be delivered, and you get a knock on the door. You open the door and there he stands. Santa Claus wearing an Australia Post shirt. And in his hand he holds one of these:

IMG_0189.jpg

And in that magical Santa-bag of toys are these:

IMG_0190.jpg

So tonight I'll be measuring everything up, cutting the braided hose, and putting the fittings on ready for it all to go together tomorrow sometime. Then it should all be good to go to put the plenum on and get everything back together. If this crimp tool I have found is the right type then I can wire up the injectors tomorrow as well and then they will be good to go. Then that's pretty much everything until I can get this catch can problem sorted out :\

Good stuff man! I was sure my Snap On electrical plier thingos had some crimping sections on it, may be a different thing though...Been a while since ive used them...

Ahhh good old Santa!! Keep taking pics of the DIY stuff, making for an interesting read mate :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...