Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cos it was NSW, you cant sent a letter of dispute to be reviewed like here in the ACT. I've tried before. You can go to court for it, and plead your case - still paying basic court costs, or you can pay the fine.

*edit* I was advised if take it to court, the judge will look at your driving history and other credentials, and there is a chance you may have your fines RAISED rather than removed.

Edited by J'son

if this one of 31 i would have just tex-screwed on to the bumper. lol

who cares if you have to drill a hole? the number covers up everything anyway. Certainly not an excuse for not attaching a plate for 4years...

Dispaying a number plate on the dash inside a high performance car is just asking for trouble IMO. Just buy a thin number plate from the motor registry and display it like I do on my R33 GTR S1 (see pic). As for the fine - I would probably just cop it and never do it again (lesson learnt). Do you really want the hassle of going to court and running the high risk of losing and then having to pay all the court costs and the original fine? Ten years time you're not going to care about any of this lol move on

post-79200-0-51118600-1331861911_thumb.jpg

Some 3M double sided tape will hold the plate on just fine. I had my GTSTs parte held on in the same spotas the above pic with double sided tape for over 2 years.just get the plastic ones made up without hoes drilled

option 1 - pay the damn fine

option 2 - pay the damn fine

option 3 - pay the damn fine and stop complaining

In terms of mounting the plate, get two pieces of metal, bend them into an "L" shape, drill holes on the bottom and the top, screw the bottom underneath the front bar and the plate to the metal. Offset it on the left or right of the front bar.

There's a boat load of adr's and shit that number plates need to comply to. Like must be parallel to the road, visible from X angle either side of the the car at Y distance from front and rear. Plate must be RTA issue and not made by ya mate at the sign shop (rapid now pick up on fake plates). Plate must be up right also not lying on your dash or on your massive fiberglass front air dam. They sell "drift spec" off centre plate brackets you screw under the edge of your bumper where you dont see, get one.

Edited by RS4-S

^ ^ ^ exactly.

In which case, the only way IMHO that you can get off is for a psychologist's report that can convince the judge that you suffer from a rare condition, "number-plate-on-front-bar phobia" or perhaps, "number-plate-on-dashboard obsession"

And just in case you are convinced that the above are suddenly plausible, it means that you're simply looking for a loophole.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
×
×
  • Create New...