Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at selling my r33 gtst twin turbo rb 30/ 25 combo .

Quick run down its running twin 30/37 turbos custom mainflods ,custom twin 3 inch from turbos back twin tail gates .all head work was carried out by advan performce with hks cams greddy cam gears tomi head kit ported and polished open up chamber ,arp stud kit greedy oil pump hi energy sump ,h beams rods cp pistons ,greddy oil pump ,hks oil cooler ,the rear head drain has been done ,greedy intake twin twin greddy blow off values blitz front mount .its running a link ecu .

The car was built for drag racing it has a full roll cage with mod plate its running a c 4 built by als race glides with transbrake with b&m pro ratcher kit with a pwr oil cooler ,it has all blitz oil temp boost and water gauges it has a hks turbo timmer and a blitz booster controler ,nothing has been spared on this build ,the car made 488.9rwkw on pump fuel with the manule gear and is current running 438.6 rwkw with the auto on pump fuel ,the car has been to the drags and has run a 10.4 @ 135 mph on pump fuel ,have change the suspension since then but have not race it on race fuel yet .so there is still alot more in it .

The car is located in Mt ISA QLD .but willing to bring to you with in reason ,

Asking price is $28 k but the price is ono also i no its only a r33 gtst but i have spent alot of money and time on this build so i dont need any smart comment if you dont like it then move on to the next topic .

iIf want any more info on the car plz call my self on 0419881874 Mark

post-51182-0-15117800-1331683401_thumb.jpg

post-51182-0-05231000-1331683482_thumb.jpg

post-51182-0-72936800-1331683553_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394693-r33-gtst-twin-turbo/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

I know this car well, you will not be disappointed. Been in GTR, evo, wrx but this thing takes the cake sweet car. Immaculate condition and sounds and goes like a dream. Use to be in Townsville with the same current owner and is still for sale in Mt Isa.

Free bump.

Edited by jbute

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do? 
    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
×
×
  • Create New...