Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Problems

grothie
 Share

Recommended Posts

grothie Apprentice

grothie

Posted
Posted

Bought an r32 4 door with an rb25 in it, not sure if its a 25 box but the clutch in it is apparently a heavy duty, grabs really good etc works fine, just the pedal itself is quite lower then the break pedal and has about 25mm of 'free play' the biting point for the clutch is VERY close to the floor which makes me wonder, is it fully disengaging or engaging when i try get into gear? sometimes its hard to get into gear, mainly first when im stopped. would adjusting help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394774-clutch-problems/
Share on other sites
Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

The clutch pedal bracket has a tendency to snap due to lack of welds, old age and heavy duty clutches don't exactly help either. It is worth a look to see if that pedal bracket is still in good condition or not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394774-clutch-problems/#findComment-6274813
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

And if the pedal bracket isn't broken, then yes, adjusting the pedal freeplay can help, assuming that you have some adjustment available. If it is at or close to the end of the adjustment range in the direction that you need to change it, then you have a bigger problem than just adjustment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394774-clutch-problems/#findComment-6274911
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Given by the sheer number of questions about offset, absolutely not. If you had the information formatted this way: Space from R34 GTT hub to outer arch = 100mm Space from R34 GTT inner hub to nearest suspension arm = 90mm. (making this up) Buying a wheel that was advertised as Enkei RPZ5 Diameter 18in Width 9 Distance to arch = 84mm Distance to suspension arm = 76mm 100% of people would know instantly if it fits. They would absolutely also know instantly how close it fits too, and no questions would need to be asked. You would know you would have 16mm from the guard and 14mm from the suspension arm.
    • silviaz
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ah ok, for example for the apexi ecu I heard that it's pretty limited with the information it can give you. Also not sure why Nissan used the consult port over the obd2, what the idea there was.
    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant.   From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it.   ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.
    • silviaz
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By silviaz · Posted

      How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
×
×
  • Create New...