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Who Do You Guys Trust To Do Your Brakes?

popinr33

By popinr33,
in Western Australia

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Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I have some DBA 4000 rotors, hel braided brake lines and some remsa pads i need installed.

What workshops in perth do you trust and have had good experiences with to do this?

Thanks

Rob

Do them yourself? Easy as hell, rotors take less than 10 minutes per corner, if you're doing rotors then pads take an additional 2 minutes per corner, and HEL braided lines are very very easy as well, although you will need to bleed your system. Could do all four corners in less than 2 hours, allowing time for messing around if it's your first time. Better than paying some workshop $200-$300 to do it all.

BANGN Experienced

BANGN

Posted
Posted (edited)

yer but if he doesn't know what he's doing, $300 is cheaper than an accident. If you're new to this have a go at doing your rotors and pads but dont attempt the hoses/bleeding unless you're being supervised by someone who can help you do the job correctly.

Edited by BANGN
Hank Scorpio Grand Master

Hank Scorpio

Posted
Posted

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/191756-consolidated-workshop-business-listing-thread/

I use Japanese Performance Centre, good blokes and 2 minutes away from work :thumbsup:

popinr33 Enthusiast

popinr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies guys.

I have changed pads and bled the system before. Just unsure on doing the lines and rotors.

Dont want to get anything wrong, so i'll just take it to a workshop.

BANGN Experienced

BANGN

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the replies guys.

I have changed pads and bled the system before. Just unsure on doing the lines and rotors.

Dont want to get anything wrong, so i'll just take it to a workshop.

rotors are pretty easy, remove the caliper, the rotors are floating so they should pull off, if not there is a couple of small threaded holes on the hat of the rotor, put in a metric bolt to size, pretty sure they're a 10mm headed bolt. Wind the bolt in and it will pop the rotor off if its seized on. Just make sure the mounting surface is clean before you put your new rotor on, or you could have pulsations under braking. Dont forget to spray your rotors with some brake cleaner and wipe them to remove the film they use to protect the rotors from rusting in the box. The slotted rotors are directional too, so check you have them on the right way.

hoses are pretty easy, there will be a U shaped clip holding the line to the strut assembly which you just pull out, then use the correct tool to undo the fittings off the caliper for the hose and off the car. You need a pipe spanner like this.

si4548.jpg

using this tool will greatly reduce the chance of rounding those soft fittings, unfortunately it happens a lot because people smash on crappy open enders.

Just do them up as tight as you pulled them off and move the steering side to side to make sure its not stressing/twisting the new hose.

Then bleed the system starting from the LHR wheel, then RHR, LHF then the RHF. You Start from the furtherest wheel from the master cyl and work your way to the drivers wheel.

Edited by BANGN
popinr33 Enthusiast

popinr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

rotors are pretty easy, remove the caliper, the rotors are floating so they should pull off, if not there is a couple of small threaded holes on the hat of the rotor, put in a metric bolt to size, pretty sure they're a 10mm headed bolt. Wind the bolt in and it will pop the rotor off if its seized on. Just make sure the mounting surface is clean before you put your new rotor on, or you could have pulsations under braking. Dont forget to spray your rotors with some brake cleaner and wipe them to remove the film they use to protect the rotors from rusting in the box. The slotted rotors are directional too, so check you have them on the right way.

hoses are pretty easy, there will be a U shaped clip holding the line to the strut assembly which you just pull out, then use the correct tool to undo the fittings off the caliper for the hose and off the car. You need a pipe spanner like this.

si4548.jpg

using this tool will greatly reduce the chance of rounding those soft fittings, unfortunately it happens a lot because people smash on crappy open enders.

Just do them up as tight as you pulled them off and move the steering side to side to make sure its not stressing/twisting the new hose.

Then bleed the system starting from the LHR wheel, then RHR, LHF then the RHF. You Start from the furtherest wheel from the master cyl and work your way to the drivers wheel.

This was very helpful, thanks.

I have read a couple of tutorials, i'll just give it a go myself and take my time.

Dsturbd Grand Master

Dsturbd

Posted
Posted

Are you LOLing becasue you would have this job done long before you finish your first can of Jacks? lol

I do not drink Jacks and i dont drink on the job :rolleyes: BUT this would be quicker to do then a 33 clutch job :thumbsup:

R DIRTY 3 Grand Master

R DIRTY 3

Posted
Posted

I do not drink Jacks and i dont drink on the job :rolleyes: BUT this would be quicker to do then a 33 clutch job :thumbsup:

*smacks forehead*

Your a the sphincter of the universe drinker?

You catch my drift though :)

Paulie C Enthusiast

Paulie C

Posted
Posted

Mayuri Krab, how much did that cost you, want to get my brakes upgraded so need to know how much it would be on average, as i've had most of my engine work done at hyperdrive i know i can trust Andrew to get the job done properly.

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