Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Harry, would be VERY interested to hear your thoughts on the RS-RR compared to RS3.

Having followed you around Lakeside I know you can pedal which is why it'd be good to hear your opinion on these otherwise unknown tyres.

Second that.

Harry, you should get a better car you'll do better times.

Lol if you only knew.

Harry's set some obscenely fast lap times in utterly unremarkable cars in the dozen or so years I've known him. In fact I'd wager his lap times in a relatively stock daihatsu charade a few years ago would embarrass whatever it is you throw around a raceteack.

I think harry's comments on the merits of competition tyres carry more weight than most others here.

I was going to say...personally I'd give Harry's opinion some credit given he has been driving a range of cars on a range of circuits over a decade or 2....but he got in first.

I mostly keep an eye on 245/45/17 prices because that's what I run on the race car, my opinion from fastest to not:

Hankook Z221 $400ea

Dunlop DZ03 $550ea

Federal FZ201 (dry only) $300ea

Yoko A050 $550ea

Bridgestone Re55s $550ea

Yoko A032

Yoko A048

Dunlop D01J/D98J

I've probably used a few others but can't remember everything

Other tyres like Toyo 888 I've never tried but anyone who has on a heavy car says they don't work well. They seem to be good on clubbies/mx5 etc. I've never tried the Nittos.

That makes the Federal FZ 201 pretty good value then, plus they are road legal in Europe anyway. How much of a performance gap for track use to the Handycook's do you think Duncan?

I remember my disappointment going from Fed RSRs to R888s. Was a fair time between track days, but I couldnt really tell much difference.

I was going to say...personally I'd give Harry's opinion some credit given he has been driving a range of cars on a range of circuits over a decade or 2....but he got in first.

I mostly keep an eye on 245/45/17 prices because that's what I run on the race car, my opinion from fastest to not:

Hankook Z221 $400ea

Dunlop DZ03 $550ea

Federal FZ201 (dry only) $300ea

Yoko A050 $550ea

Bridgestone Re55s $550ea

Yoko A032

Yoko A048

Dunlop D01J/D98J

I've probably used a few others but can't remember everything

Other tyres like Toyo 888 I've never tried but anyone who has on a heavy car says they don't work well. They seem to be good on clubbies/mx5 etc. I've never tried the Nittos.

Where do the Kumho V70s fit in that list?

Dammit I knew I forgot something....they used to be our control tyre I did heaps of laps on them.

updated "semi slick hall of fame according to Duncan (SSHOFATD™ )

Hankook Z221 $400ea
Dunlop DZ03 $550ea
Federal FZ201 (dry only) $300ea
Yoko A050 $550ea
Kumho V70A $400
Bridgestone Re55s $550ea
Yoko A032
Yoko A048
Dunlop D01J/D98J
I thought the Federals were excellent for the price and would happily run them again if I didn't have to try and beat people on Hankooks (they are our new control tyre anyway so it's a moot point for racing). I ran both softs (hillclimbs) and hards (circuit) and they were a bit over 0.5sec off the Hankooks. They were diabolical in the wet though, I had commodores overtake me on the inside in the monsoon we were racing in. Not sure how easy they are to get any more though, there was some sort of issue with distribution in Oz.
  • Like 1

lol I haven't, only the hards. Even those are pretty good, but just soooooooooooooooo expensive.

I think a key difference to keep in mind is whether you need medium/hard (racing, rallies, track days) or medium/soft (supersprints, hillclimbs, superlap). My list above has been a mix and it's not fair to assume one brand's hards would be the same relative to their softs either.

BTW just my opinion.....over about 15 years but I've never done a back to back comparison of 2 tyres on the same car/day/track so it's not exactly scientific. mostly based on a mix of results and lap times that I've done on each

Oh, and everything on that list is better than the best road tyres I've ever used. I know a lot of street tyres are trying to be cross overs but it's just not the same. Driving on real semis is an awesome experience.

I've run on 2 sets of new slicks as well (kumho and falken) and didn't find them particularly better than a good semi slick (plus of course you either need to take wets, or be willing to park if it rains hard). It feels like a lot of the development goes on semis because that's where the sales and money are (outside control tyres in full on racing series of course)

  • 4 weeks later...

I know some people hate the NT01 with a passion, but it hooks up great for me. Doesn't spin tyres once they're warm.. and cheaper than other tyres mentioned. I know there are better, but for an amateur just like yourself they're awesome to drive to and from the track on.

9 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I know some people hate the NT01 with a passion, but it hooks up great for me. Doesn't spin tyres once they're warm.. and cheaper than other tyres mentioned. I know there are better, but for an amateur just like yourself they're awesome to drive to and from the track on.

cheers! sorry should have mentioned its a track only car. on the trailer to and from events

We've run 245 on 8" rims on the front / 275 on 9" rims on the rear in NT01's at Mallala (I assume that's where you'll be using it) on an R33 GTST with pretty good results - best lap time was 1:21 with slower traffic on the track (ie no clear laps - probably good for sub 1:20 with a clear run). We have a bit less power than you - 320rwkw - and a 2 way diff.

Last time out we swapped the fronts to 235 & rears to 275 Hankook C91 super soft (old used tyres) and did a best time of high 1:18.

I may be interested in selling the NT01's - 245 & 275 in 17's - as they won't fit over our new brakes. Fronts have done 3 events, rears 1 event - pm me if interested. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...