Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They may have tread for 300 laps, but doesn't mean they will have grip for that long.

If your planning more sprints and hill climbs, the softs would still be the go I guess.

I mean they last that long :) But apparently had grip all the way to the canvas... In saying that it is probably bias info :P

I've had my medium V70's since June 2012 and did....

rest of 2012 - 4 race meets (some meets had either 4 sessions (1 X qual and 3 x race) or 8 if I double entered (giggle)

2013 5 race meets and 2 of them I had doubkle entered again (MX5 and superTT)

this year1 hill climb and sprint

so they lasted very well!!!

they also had about 300kms of road use give or take.

I've had my medium V70's since June 2012 and did....

rest of 2012 - 4 race meets (some meets had either 4 sessions (1 X qual and 3 x race) or 8 if I double entered (giggle)

2013 5 race meets and 2 of them I had doubkle entered again (MX5 and superTT)

this year1 hill climb and sprint

so they lasted very well!!!

they also had about 300kms of road use give or take.

Wow nice effort! So they are certainly worth the money :yes:

I've run both the mediums and hard V70a on the GTR and was happy with them. Just bought another set of mediums the other day for hillclimbs

I found the mediums were destroyed on a 20 lap race on a hot day though, the hards were fine for sessions up to an hour without undue wear. And they grip very well long after the visible tread is gone (it is designed to wear off early in the tyre's life, the wear indicators are on the 2 main grooves).

I have no experience with their softs; but I would have gone them for hillclimbs if I could of got them...you can't have too soft for a hillclimb

Also one thing to keep in mind with these, on the GTR and GTSt at least, they work best at 44psi hot. I tried them at both 42 and 46 and they were slower.

  • 4 weeks later...

Yeah sorry I don't believe that every racing team in the world was wrong. Hectic drifters want stretch because 1) narrow tyres are cheaper and 2)it is a fashion and that is about the only people who do it.

I'll stick with the widest tyre I can fit on a given rim size except for 2 cases:

Assuming I understand what i've read - I think your focussing on the wrong bit. Yes, the widest tyre that will fit within the wheel well and past the suspension components is the best, however, you should put that tyre on the widest rim that is approved for that size tyre.

FWIW, here's pics of 265s on 10.5 inch rims, for those concerned with aesthetics;

gallery_15274_3064_170677.jpg

gallery_15274_3064_202520.jpg

I'll second that. I gained almost time and a whole bunch of "feel" changing from 9" to 10" wheels with 255 semis (which measured 270) on my old 180SX. They were pretty bulgy on the 9s and gave no feedback near the limit - very snappy. On 10s they were slightly stretched, heaps more progressive on the limit and faster at both QR and Lakeside.

I'll second that. I gained almost time and a whole bunch of "feel" changing from 9" to 10" wheels with 255 semis (which measured 270) on my old 180SX. They were pretty bulgy on the 9s and gave no feedback near the limit - very snappy. On 10s they were slightly stretched, heaps more progressive on the limit and faster at both QR and Lakeside.

Interesting feedback! I run 265 on a 9" which measures about 280 and they felt OK, in saying that i have nothing to compare against so if i find some wider rims ill see if i can notice a difference.

  • 2 months later...

Probably been done to death but after a tyre on which I can drive 400 kms, do a hill climb and sprint then drive 400 kms home on. Seeing as the events are in Albany in the middle of winter there is a distinct chance it will be cold/raining. Not after the last word in competitive R comps (have some A050's for proper stuff) but was wondering if there was a decent S tyre tyre or similar that I could use for this trip and as a roadie thereafter.

Falken RT615.

Kumho KU36.

Yokie AD08R.

Other suggestions?

Scrap the Faulkens, I have them, they are crap, the K version is suppose to be better but have heard any proof yet

The Kumhos are good as an alrounder, no complaints from me about them, except the AD08s are way better and worth every cent they cost

The yokie AD08s I currently have on my 32 are by far the best road tyre I have ever driven on

The hankook RS-3s I currently have on my 34 are a really really good tyre, slightly better the KU36, but just not quiet as good as the AD08s

I am keen as mustard to try the Achilles 123s next as I believe they are going to be a really good tyre and for the price they are impossible to beat value for money

  • 2 weeks later...

my take on these street-track crossover tyres is that anything that costs as much as cheaper semis is pointless - buy the semis! So for me that rules out AD08, RS3 and R1R. If you really have to have the fastest tyre over 120 UTQG reagardless, WTAC pre-control tyres pretty much proved its the RS3. And they should be cheaper than AD08 too.

Otherwise that basically leaves the choices down to KU36, RSR and 123S if you're looking for something cheaper than semis that will do an OK job on the track and road..

RSR are the fastest of the rest but wear out so quickly that buying semis works out to be better value.

KU36 - I've had these on a Supra and Legnum. They do respectable times and can cop an absolute flogging. They were quiet on the Supra but noisey on the Legnum. They were good in the wet imo, but many disagree with that. 180 treadwear. These lasted as long as normal road tyres on my Supra and did heaps of track days locally and interstate. I wouldn't hesitate to buy these again.

123S - all i really know is the Excel racers do pretty respectable times on them. 200 treadwear and very deep tread - might be a bit squirmy at first but they should last pretty well. Sidewalls seem nice and stiff too. I just put a set of these on my Datto yesterday. The main reasons I chose these over KU36 was that he had them in stock and gave me a pretty sharp price on them.

Edited by hrd-hr30

Well the A050's are $520 each and the KU36 were out on special from Tempe tyres at $250 each. I was going to buy them but I noticed that their special of free shipping didn't include anyone who lived outside a capital city. So I ditched that and will probably get them from the local shop as by the time you add freight and fitting there is nothing in the price.

Either that or some AD08R's if I can find them on special at some point as they are $400 each.

Just needing a road tyre than can do an occasional hillclimb. Basically they are for driving to the track more so than on it. 600km worth of travel to/from the track and four degrees neg camber don't make for a long lasting tyre.

Edited by djr81

Personally, I reckon if you're after a tyre that's more for driving to the track than on it, you'd be better off running less camber too, so the car matches that ethos as well. You won't need 4degree camber on a crossover tyre, it will be better on the track and road with less camber.

Hankook RS3 are cheaper and faster than AD08Rs. But if you're looking for a tyre more for the drive to the track than on it, KU36 or 123S will be the ones that last better on the road and cost way less than AD08R. You can even get R888 or NT01 semis cheaper than AD08R, and they won't last much less on the road than AD08R.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...