Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm still tossing up my next R-comp purchase, have A050 M at the moment in 265/35R18 and thinking of trying out some 295/30R18 if they fit but curious on how the Hankook Z221 perform considering the price, can also get them in a 285/30R18 which may be a happy medium in size.

So in terms of outright lap times, how would a 285 Z221 compare with a 265 A050M?

The big feedback I'm hearing from the IPRA guys since going from the 048's to 050's is not only that the grip levels seem much higher, but they maintain the grip almost to the end, and don't seem as bothered by heat cycles. The end result is that many are claiming better value for money as they're getting the full life out of tyres, rather than binning them (selling cheap) after a few heat cycles when there's still a lot of tread left.

Not sure how the Hankooks compare to 048's, but the 050's certainly crap all over the 48's.

A050's do seem to last a lot longer then A048's and still give good grip levels.

I have a good supply of Ao48's from the V9 utes series where teams would only run a set for one round and then off load them as the grip level had gone away. Many of these tyres still have heaps of tread but have lost a few seconds in lap times - but they are great for track days. By comparison the A050's are kept until they are down to the wear indicators as the grip level does not drop off as quickly.

How would the Z221 store compared to something like A050? My size is 235 45 17 and the Z221 M are $250ea in that size, I can't find A050 for less than $450ea

That's about right for the price difference.

I haven't run on either but I'd happily take the Hankooks. Yokohama had them banned from Superlap for a reason, and most of the people that buy new Yokos do so because their race rules require thenm.....

That's about right for the price difference.

I haven't run on either but I'd happily take the Hankooks. Yokohama had them banned from Superlap for a reason, and most of the people that buy new Yokos do so because their race rules require thenm.....

I didn't know that about Superlap, interesting!

For around the $250ea mark the Z221's seem like the best option, that's almost still KU36/RSR etc money.

I went to a track day at Marulan a few weeks ago and a couple of guys there were running them with big praise.

How would the Z221 store compared to something like A050? My size is 235 45 17 and the Z221 M are $250ea in that size, I can't find A050 for less than $450ea

Basically the same sort of difference for price in 18's. I don't really mind wear as much as I don't want to go backwards in time.

I ran on the Hankooks Z221's for the first time recently in my new bus as they are the control tyre for AMCamps.

These weren't the softs that the WTAC guys run. They were the normal compound. One interesting thing I found with them was they really took 3-4 laps to get up to temp and for the times to stabilize. They were a mega tyre for a race though as I was doing 10-12 lap sessions and from lap 4 on wards they were better - but not sure they would be the ideal option if you were only doing 3 lap sprints. As lap 1 was a good +2s slower than lap 4.

As an example here was one of the sessions I did at Winton. You can see the fastest lap was lap 7 and then it was pretty consistent after that.

1. 1:37.6933

2. 1:36.9572

3. 1:36.4395

4. 1:35.6922

5. 1:35.5647

6. 1:35.2582

7. 1:34.7901

8. 1:35.1124

9. 1:35.4962

10. 1:35.2636

11. 1:35.1733

My experience with A050's however is their best lap is lap 1.

  • Like 3

I ran on the Hankooks Z221's for the first time recently in my new bus as they are the control tyre for AMCamps.

These weren't the softs that the WTAC guys run. They were the normal compound. One interesting thing I found with them was they really took 3-4 laps to get up to temp and for the times to stabilize. They were a mega tyre for a race though as I was doing 10-12 lap sessions and from lap 4 on wards they were better - but not sure they would be the ideal option if you were only doing 3 lap sprints. As lap 1 was a good +2s slower than lap 4.

As an example here was one of the sessions I did at Winton. You can see the fastest lap was lap 7 and then it was pretty consistent after that.

1. 1:37.6933

2. 1:36.9572

3. 1:36.4395

4. 1:35.6922

5. 1:35.5647

6. 1:35.2582

7. 1:34.7901

8. 1:35.1124

9. 1:35.4962

10. 1:35.2636

11. 1:35.1733

My experience with A050's however is their best lap is lap 1.

Great info, from what others have said the Hankook soft is more like the A050 medium so I wonder if that makes a difference. Do you have times on a A050 to compare?

I tend to get my best lap on medium A050 on the 3rd hot lap, don't know if it comes down the driving style, tyre pressures or something else

No I don't have A050 data with this car. That was the first (and only) time I have driven it to date.

But I doubt the Hankook softs are like the A050 Mediums. The softs seem pretty special judging by what we've seen at WTAC.

I just checked and I was running the Hankook Mediums. As you say it may come down to tyre temps/pressures. We were aiming for 34 hot but that was after 10 laps, not 3. Maybe higher starting pressures would yield better results for early laps - I'm not 100% sure TBH. I just know I struggled to get them to "turn on" in the early laps each time out.

But I will also say the tyres I used had already done a 4hr race at QR and then I did a bit over 50 laps of Winton (just over 150km's) and they were still in pretty damn good condition so they certainly seem to wear well.

Hankook mediums are the wrong compound choice for sprints. Not fair to compare those to A050 Mediums - the comparable Hankook compound is C70 Soft. Edited this earlier quote to make it a bit clearer:

I learnt the hard way. Bought a pair of bargain secondhand 275 Z214 C51 "Mediums" for the back of the Soarer, only to find they were harder and less grippy than the 245 NT01s I had on there. I had NFI about the Hankook compounds at the time, but "medium" sounded like what I wanted for sprints. Wrong! They're not that old and had almost new tread, so at first I thought they might just have been cooked or heat cycled too many times. But a mate who runs C70s told me about the compounds... At least it was only $100 bucks wasted.

Then I bumped into the Hankook rep up here at a hillclimb and he explained the C70 "softs" as really being medium compound and the C50 "medium" is really a hard compound. C90 (supersoft) for Hillclimbs/WTAC. C70 (soft) for Sprints and short races. C50 (medium) if you want to do a 3hr race!

Edited by hrd-hr30

Found this which is interesting

Have used RE55S, A050-M and Z221 C70 (soft). Z221s are awesome. Compared to A050 the difference in lap time so far has been around 2 seconds, but there's more in them, just have to get used to the grip. Though I have gone from 255/40/17 and 265/35/18 in A050-Medium compound to 265/35/18 and 285/30/18 Z221 soft so it's not a like-for-like comparison. In terms of actually driving the car there is less understeer, but when the car does understeer you still get better cornering ability compared to A050. Finally the Z221s seem to be able to be bullied a bit more. I pretty much killed a fresh set of A050-M at Winton by pushing too hard into the hairpins but with the Z221 you can push and they won't chunk out.

In terms of size, the future is 285-square or GTFO...

RB is right you have about 3 optimal laps then the grip starts to slide off, my car is generally only good for 3-4 laps anyway before it starts to get a little hot so for me the soft compound is perfect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...