Jump to content
SAU Community

Circuit Semi Slicks

Roy

By Roy,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted

I needed a pair of wheels when I got my 265s all round too. I went with Koya CR Tek - cheap, strong, and proven on the race track.

18x9.5 was widest they have, but that's perfect for 265s anyway. Offsets are cut to your specs. 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 554
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

hrd-hr30
hrd-hr30

A050 M seem to grip OK even when cold just an excuse to post a pic of the mighty 120Y at Mt Cotton yesterday But they are the grippiest tyre I've ever used.

Snowman
Snowman

I ran on the Hankooks Z221's for the first time recently in my new bus as they are the control tyre for AMCamps. These weren't the softs that the WTAC guys run. They were the normal compound. One int

gtr jet
gtr jet

Do a couple of quick heli's in the closest intersection and then park it back in the garage overnight.

Posted Images

dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
Posted
On 7/19/2016 at 7:12 PM, Duncan said:

lol you should probably say, or update your sig then :P (edit: make that profile, I can sort of see it in your sig now:blush:)

you are probably limited to 8" on the front of a 33 gtst unless you are putting larger guards on, and that means no larger than 245s.

as for brand I'd just ring the local motorsport suppliers and see what they have....I haven't bought slicks for years but I think they are worth considering for track only

I run a 9" R33 GTR wheel (+30) with 255 z221 on the front with no issues.  Guards have been rolled though.

On 7/29/2016 at 9:56 AM, Adz2332 said:

more or less what i was thinking....

Might grab a set of the nankangs 265 all round. that way can rotate the tyres.

have to find a set of 18 9.5 +12 or 10.5s rims cheapish

I'm not sure if a 10.5" +12 wheel with 265s will fit on the front of an R33 GTST with some serious guard work?

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted
On ‎8‎/‎16‎/‎2016 at 6:15 PM, dan.1337 said:

I run a 9" R33 GTR wheel (+30) with 255 z221 on the front with no issues.  Guards have been rolled though.

I'm not sure if a 10.5" +12 wheel with 265s will fit on the front of an R33 GTST with some serious guard work?

I've been running 18x10 +12 with 265s up front.  Nothing too serious on guard work, an hour with tin snips & hammer, and screwed on some flares.  Works well, beats trying to roll a lip etc.

  • 4 weeks later...
hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted

Used the Nankangs at Mt Cotton hillclimb on the weekend. They were great - work very well from cold. I've never felt a semi work so well in Turn 1 out there.  The sharpest steering response I've ever felt into T1, with not even a hint of understeer and probably the best traction I've ever had on the way out of T1. Actually, they've got excellent traction off all the slow turns out there. I'm very impressed with them. Had to be careful not to overheat them with the burnout - just a very small 2 second burnout to warm the rears was about all they wanted. Any more and they went a bit squishy.
Haven't seen the times from the last couple of runs yet, but runs 3 and 4 were 47.9s which is 4 tenths faster than the Nittos were there (without tyre softener). That's heaps of time at a ~48sec hillclimb, and I reckon I went faster on the last run. Just waiting on the results to be emailled out.

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

So Harry - at the price point where AR1 (and NT01) live - you're not seeing anything about the Nankangs that's a negative from a clubman motorsport perspective?  Bearing in mind that's about the level of most forum conversations and budget constraints for "average" enthusiasts.

Seems the AR1 on a heavier car, dry track, can do the job for hillclimb (nearly dead cold rubber) and sprints (~10 - 15 minute session so generating a bit of heat) pretty well, faster than the Nitto with more grip generally.  It will be interesting to see how they go for durability.

How do they feel for carcass rigidity, and progressive breakaway when they do slide?

I'm very interested to see what you think overall.  Accepting they're not likely to perform at A050 or Z221 level, these things have to be on a few people's lists when not chasing sheep stations.

hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted (edited)

They're in a totally different league to NT01s. No doubt whatsoever. There's no downsides to them. The guy who fitted them has been selling NT01s for years, said the Nankangs definitely have stronger sidewalls. They're good on the limit, and when you overstep it. No quirks or foibles at all - they just perform like a good semi slick should. They might not be quite up there with A050/Z221 mediums, but would be FAR closer in performance to those than the Nittos are to AR1s. I'm hoping they release a 295 or the back of the Soarer... Would be awesome for the hillclimb if they release a soft compound!

I've done 3 trackdays and one hillclimb so far, so it's early days to be talking about durability, but no concerns so far in wear or heat cycling.

 

Edited by hrd-hr30
  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
Posted
On 12/09/2016 at 9:31 AM, hrd-hr30 said:

They're in a totally different league to NT01s. No doubt whatsoever. There's no downsides to them. The guy who fitted them has been selling NT01s for years, said the Nankangs definitely have stronger sidewalls. They're good on the limit, and when you overstep it. No quirks or foibles at all - they just perform like a good semi slick should. They might not be quite up there with A050/Z221 mediums, but would be FAR closer in performance to those than the Nittos are to AR1s. I'm hoping they release a 295 or the back of the Soarer... Would be awesome for the hillclimb if they release a soft compound!

I've done 3 trackdays and one hillclimb so far, so it's early days to be talking about durability, but no concerns so far in wear or heat cycling.

 

 

which nankangs are you referring to??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • GTSBoy
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • Matvei27
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By Matvei27 · Posted

      I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • MBS206
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...