Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry, the older cars used to use 24/64-18 front 27/68-18

Looks like the newer cars went up some sizes. 27/65-18 and 31/71-18

Used tyres aren't that hard to come by, google will show a few leads.

as will my105.com.au

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/cid/5478/id/12962/Default.aspx

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/cid/5478/id/12958/Default.aspx

  • Like 1

yep, I bought a set of Kumho S700 because they were cheaper than semis at the time. Had 2 front blowouts in 3 track days, one left one right. And the third one I got to replace the first blowout, was smoking and about to let go when I had the 2nd blowout!

That was on a 180SX with unchanged front suspension setup that R888s and FZ201s, and even cheapo gemstone street tyres survived for years without any issue.

I wouldn't touch Kumhos again after that experience. And Kumho simply didn't want to know about it.

Edited by hrd-hr30

I have three sets of Kumho V70A's and I have been very impressed with them after coming from Yokohama 048's.

The Kumho's have a reputation for failures on the front if you run them too soft or with too much camber.

I had to go up about 6 pounds from the 048 hot pressures and I only run 2 degrees negative camber in the front.

It could be the fact that they have square shoulders and like to sit flat on the road but they seem to react badly to camber. The 048's have very rounded shoulders by comparison and cope with a lot more camber without any problems. The Kumho's also like higher pressures that seem more like street radial pressures than semi slick pressures.

I am happy with the performance of my Kumho semi's but you have to adjust your pressures and suspension to make them work. They are not as forgiving as other tyres on the market.

Weird.

I have the v70a/v700 ( arnt they the same?) in hard compound running on the supra, so a fairly heavy car. I havent had issue's with them and ive had them since start of the year, had 2 track days and 5 hill climbs so far.

I also ran them 34/32 hot for track days and even tried them at 32-30 hot on hill climbs, no issues for me.

I like them but would go mediums as the hard compounds take too long to heat up for hill climbs.

I hear very good things about the 050 yokohama's

Weird.

I have the v70a/v700 ( arnt they the same?)

no the V700 and V70A are different types/patterns of semi slicks. But he was asking about slicks - i assume the V700 was a typo - the Kumho slick is S700. Which are obviously a different tyre from either of the semis.

Weird.

I have the v70a/v700 ( arnt they the same?) in hard compound running on the supra, so a fairly heavy car. I havent had issue's with them and ive had them since start of the year, had 2 track days and 5 hill climbs so far.

I also ran them 34/32 hot for track days and even tried them at 32-30 hot on hill climbs, no issues for me.

I like them but would go mediums as the hard compounds take too long to heat up for hill climbs.

I hear very good things about the 050 yokohama's

The 50's are quick but dont last very long. They also fall away in performance - not the compound - just the rubber wearing differently across the tread face. May be fixable by remounting the rhf on the lhf as they are directional. They go well from cold too.

That's opposite of what the IPRA guys were saying when the 050's came out. Compared to the 048's, which heat cycle badly, they reckon the 050's were good till they were at the canvas, hence better value for money as you can use them till they wear out and not lose performance.

Well that is why I was trying to say it isnt a compound thing. Just maybe that my lardbox is a little to, umm, lardie for them.

Am sure someone will be along to tell me my set up sucks teh balls but here is a dead tyre.

post-5134-0-13378100-1403246995_thumb.jpg

Not how the tread block (for want of a better term) wears - chamfers really. Can be helped by swapping tyres side to side but the grip does fall away as the tyre ages. For me anyway.

What pressures were/are you running?

Mine chamfered as well when I first put them on, a little more camber and less tyre pressure seemed to help a fair bit.

How do you rate them against the V70A for wear and grip?

1. Pressures were 30# which is what the bloke from Yokohama said.

2. Camber is enough I think - anymore I would have to wheel align it for other circuits/events etc. Dont think it is that far away. Did a 64.0 something which isnt too bad for 410 horsepowers, a full interior and a talentless driver.

3. NFI never ran with the ho's.

Yeah 30 hot is spot on although I think I'm running plenty more camber than you, I'm up to around 4deg now.

Thinking about giving the Kumhos a crack next, I've got the 123S down into the 63's and the A050 a mid 61.

Have a set of Ikeya Formula front LCA's to also fit so hopefully the extra track that gives will help times a little because GTR understeer is a bitch

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...