Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, strange results when I changed from stock to vg30/z32 AFM in the stagea.

While the old AFM was standard (as far as I know), the PFC was set to VG30/Z32.

With the actual Z32 AFM, it runs badly.

I am pretty sure the air flow curves for vg30 have been fiddled with along the line somewhere.

My VG30 settings are:

Volts 0 0.32 0.48 0.64 0.8 0.96 1.12 1.28 1.44 1.6 1.76 1.92 2.08 2.24 2.4 2.56 2.72 2.88 3.04 3.2 3.36 3.52 3.68 3.84 4 4.16 4.32 4.48 4.64 4.8 4.96 5.12

VG30 0 4 5 12 22 45 55 78 85 135 200 260 295 320 350 450 500 700 850 950 1200 1400 1600 2000 2200 2300 2800 3000 3200 3500 3800 4500

I found a partial screen shot from Trent which showed VG30 as

0 8 8 17 31 52 84 129 187 257 345

But the settings were not complete and I am not sure if they are stock.

Can someone with standard VG30 settings in their PFC and Datalogit please post up the correct standard values?

Full settings are here for reference:

air-flow-curves.xls

they're in the sample maps that come with fc-edit. if you dont have them then try re downloading the software. i'd upload a copy but dont have fc-edit on this computer

Excellent call, thanks mate.

I had been using the VH41 setting and the graph shows why it works....vh41 has the same AFM curve as VG30....

For reference, this is my vg30 curve vs standard afm vs standard vg30 curve vs vh41 curve.

afm_curves.jpg

No worries.

VH41 curve isnt the same as VG30, with that graph it'd be a much flatter line, higher airflow at low volts and lower airflow at high volts. Sounds like someones messed around with your afm tables a fair bit....

Found my copy of fc-edit and these are the standard settings for vg30 and vh41. You should be able to copy and paste these straight into fc-edit. Top row is VG30. At 2.08V both AFM's are flowing the same amount of air but below that the VH41 is flowing more and above that the VG30 is.

0 5 5 12 22 37 59 92 134 185 249 329 425 539 674 827 999 1197 1418 1655 1937 2246 2586 2961 3376 3835 4335 4883 5475 6114 6804 7546

0 5 13 25 40 59 85 117 159 210 274 344 426 526 635 758 906 1076 1268 1481 1716 1976 2277 2600 2992 3421 3854 4337 4847 5396 6015 6683

Edited by JonnoHR31

Excellent, thanks for checking this out. :cheers:

The numbers you provided above match what I got rom the default map for vg30 so that's good news.

No idea why everything else has been moved around...I'll clean them up over time, for now it just needs to run OK for a few weeks until a proper tune.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...