Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just curious on a little issue. I'm looking to get more response out of my rb25, i've been playing around with the idea of putting in a light weight flywheel. I've heard that you can get some pretty good results from it but i'm still in need of a bit of convincing. Someone with experience with this drive train modification please enlighten this :newbie:

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39519-engine-response/
Share on other sites

I don't have any expereince with it, but i'm planning to put a light weight flywheel in when i do my clutch next, it should give it that little bit more response/rev a little quicker...

anything you can do to lighten up the drivetrain has got to be good for responsivness

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39519-engine-response/#findComment-802480
Share on other sites

a lightened flywheel will help improve pick up response, but be aware that it will also cause the revs to drop more during gear changes...

Dave has a good point here - if it'll rev faster, it'll DE-rev faster too... i guess it depends on how you want to drive it. IMHO, i would have thought that for dragging, maintaining revs would have been more important than quick throottle response ? don't quote me on that though...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39519-engine-response/#findComment-802494
Share on other sites

Lightened flywheel, lightened wheels, lightened tail shaft, lightened pulleys are all good.

But you can also lighten your car - rip up the carpet and remove all the sound deadening, remove the boot trim and the spare wheel, remove the rear seats.

Not only will you increase responsiveness, as the car gets lighter, it brakes and corners better too. If you can remove 70-80kg - that have as much difference as between when you have a passenger in the car and when you drive alone - every bit helps.

If you have management, get it tuned with AF ratios around 11:1 and add more timing - this too will increase responsiveness. Its how one of Signal's D1 drivers suggested I should tune my car to increase responsiveness. He also suggested that running a base fuel pressure of 3kg (instead of stock 2.5) would help, with the right tune, to increase response further.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39519-engine-response/#findComment-802499
Share on other sites

mmm thanks all.. has given me a little food for thought.... more comments please:D

yeh the flywheel and a light alloy pully system should be good... what i want to do with the car is just make it a little more responsive....... not jack the boost up and make it go nuts.... just enhance whats already there. Sorta like trying to play with the car in a little different manner. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39519-engine-response/#findComment-803124
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pic of Nos, turbo kit and sequential not loading. 404 not found
    • im sure mine stays in gear and wont shift unless i shift it? and for sure it wont go back to Auto mode if its put in manual mode? if i use paddles but its still in D then of course it goes back to auto mode. but yer if its in -+ and i use paddles it will not auto change gears what so ever and i have tried this. it will gear down if at a stop though which is kinda nice but goes back to 1st gear not D. i think it used to be like this with imports aswell i dunno if its really like it anymore like when i got my R33 it had alot of JDM options which local cars didnt have. Now local cars have kinda caught up even the lower models. but yer transfer rates and other things makes it almost on par.
    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...