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hey guys ,

lately iv been noticing stretched tyres is the craze , and its gotten me hooked . in saying that i dont have much info about it all to be honest.

firstly , as silly as it sounds but will any tyre place be able to stock me with some depending what i want ?

are they a different type of tyre compared to ones that are to suit a certain size rim ?

im thinking of getting LENSO D1R Drift Wheel 18 x 10 +22 for my gtst , and im after a real agressive look . im wondering if i run stretched tyres, plus some negative camber for mainly the front , will that be possible , with rolling / flaring of coarse

and what tyres would i be asking for when i rock up to the tyre place

thanks

attached is a pic of one of my r33s , i was running work equips 18 x 10 + 18 , it wasnt too low as you can see , but i loved the real tough look , and i did rep a lot of comments on them despite they were gtr fitment.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395297-stretched-tyres-on-18-x10s/
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cheers for the repsonce , but yes as for tyres and purchasing , as mentioned can i get the stretched tyres anywhere? and are they more expensive?

yeah lol another member bought them of me and had them on his r33 , i actually found the thread when searching for wheels to suit

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/342504-work-equips-18x10-18/

All a stretched tyre is is basically using any tyre that is smaller in width than the recommended size for that width of rim,

The fitter "Stretches" the tyre as they put it on the rim.

No special tyres or anything, you can do it with pretty much any tyre you like, you just need to buy a smaller size width.

I have 235s stretch on 10" on my 15 for the rear

99% of tyre fitters wouldnt touch it as it's dangerous and if the tyre pops off the bead, you can actually get them into trouble

There's only one tyre place here that does it and that's where i got mine done

235s on 10" is not alot of stretch, doesnt even need any stretching techniques to make the bead seat on the rims, it's that easy

As for your rim of choice, i dont get why you would want to swap your Works equip for Lenso D1R??

As for tyres, any tyres can stretch but some are easier than others... And you need to run more psi on the tyres to keep the tyres from popping off the bead

Edited by ichi-go

not swaping mate , past tense , as mentioned i had them on one of my older skylines.

cheers for all the info guys , definitly answered all my questions.

now any recomendations of a place in sydney that will throw stretched tyres on for me ?

cheers

I had 245/35 on 18x10" wheels previously. A bit of stretch, not sure I'd really want to go 235. If you look at my topics there's pics in the for sale thread for them.

Anyway I just brought them to Tempe Tyres, don't think they'd have too much of a problem with stretching tyres for you and they're usually pretty well priced.

hahah yeah , one of my mates had some rims from there , he went to change his tyre to his space saver , and realised they threaded all the bolts on the wheels with the torque gun lol. ill just be taking my rims down there in my ute and have them chuck the tyres on there , fit them when i come home. ill be calling them tomorrow and confirming about the wheels and stretching them

yes definetily.

i also have one other question ,

obviously when the car is slow it will create some negative camber ,but for the front , if i want to create more neg to fit into the gaurd , what is the best way to do so ? iv searched up and read that people either use different bushes to dial , or either camber arms , but are there camber arms that will produce negative rather then correct?

and also i will get the gaurds rolled , but is there anyway i can get them pumped as far as possible without painting / or flaring ? i mean it shouldnt be too bad once some camber is there , its just a matter of getting them to sit right .

the other member who bought my equips seamed to have it quite well set - he has more camper compared to my shot and it sat pretty good. , but will there be much different in the +4 of offset , considering the equips were +18 , and the new wheels im getting are +22 , they should sit in closer if im understanding it right? correct me if im not?

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With regard to guard rolling and pumping, PhillB on the forums rolled and pumped my fronts after the rears were wrecked by Tempe, couldn't have been happier and wished I had gone to him first - no damage to the paint whatsoever.

His details are on his website which is www.phillbenterprises.com or he's PhillB on the forums I think.

With regard to guard rolling and pumping, PhillB on the forums rolled and pumped my fronts after the rears were wrecked by Tempe, couldn't have been happier and wished I had gone to him first - no damage to the paint whatsoever.

His details are on his website which is www.phillbenterprises.com or he's PhillB on the forums I think.

damn stories keep comimg up by the sounds . how much did he charge to do the car . cheers

also thanks for the replies , i am definitly more educated with all this , cheers men.

I think it was around $50 or $60 a corner, not too sure best to check with him. (That was for rolling and pumping/flaring).

And if i remember correctly it was about $40 a corner just to get them rolled at Tempe. The extra $10 or $20 per corner to have it done well is so worth it or you're looking at alot more to fix any damage/cracking.

damn stories keep comimg up by the sounds . how much did he charge to do the car . cheers

also thanks for the replies , i am definitly more educated with all this , cheers men.

Not educated enough. 255 is minimum legal width for 10 in. Stretching tyres is bad practice. Worst case scenario the tyre can be pushed off the lip and deflate rapidly during hard cornering but more generally the tyre will not work as well if the walls are not perpendicular. They will get hotter quickly and cornering ability is greatly reduced. Never mind the ones you have seen on drift cars - the whole point of drifting is loss of traction and grip ("controlled slide").

An extreme case of form over function where there is a real major downside. If the proper tyres won't fit in your guards get smaller wheels or pump out the guards. Negative camber is for better cornering at the expense of some accelerated tyre wear not for making wheels fit the guards.

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