Jump to content
SAU Community

Catch Can/bov Plumb Back

Manuel Kasko
 Share

Recommended Posts

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

So just installed the new intake pipe and its causing me a few drams with fitting.

At the angle it needs to be to fit on the turbo correctly and fit the pod it seems to leave me no room for the plumb backs.

Here is a picture of how the hoses sit right now.

Do you think this will get way to hot and melt?

015uuo.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395489-catch-canbov-plumb-back/
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I made it to suit the stock airbox but I would have thought a pod would be fine. Do you have better pics of the area inc pod? Perhaps you need to cut the top bend off the pipe.

You can buy silicone covered fiberglass hose protection but even a little exhaust wrap would work. How does it line up with the BOV pipe?

Any problems let me know, I haven't done a remote install before. :)

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The picture makes my head hurt. lol.

Can you see how it would sit if you cut the top bend off? It would give you plenty more clearance but then the BOV wouldn't align as well. Keep that as a last resort perhaps.

Can you fit up the BOV/breather pipe and see where it sits, the pipes need to bend a bit yet I would say. What is the pod hitting to stop it dropping down more? You may need to trim the 80mm joiners down a little too for more room.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

I now use the stock pipe. It didn't line up anywhere near the BOV return on my intake pipe, so I cut it up at a certain point where it would angle down towards the return point in the intake pipe then used the rest of the rubber pipe to fill the gaps. I'm still using the same stuff for my oil breathers but they don't sit as close to the manifold as the BOV return did.

Its funny, I had these 90 degree PVC couplings to create bends in the BOV return where I needed them. They lasted fine, except for the one ontop of the turbo, it shrunk and melted like a motherf**ker lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...